UNITED STATES
SECURITIES AND EXCHANGE COMMISSION
Washington, D.C. 20549
FORM
ANNUAL REPORT PURSUANT TO SECTION 13 OR 15(d) OF THE SECURITIES EXCHANGE ACT OF 1934 | |
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or | |
TRANSITION REPORT PURSUANT TO SECTION 13 OR 15(d) OF THE SECURITIES EXCHANGE ACT OF 1934 | |
For the transition period from to |
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Securities registered pursuant to Section 12(b) of the Act: |
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Indicate by check mark if the registrant is a well-known seasoned issuer as defined in Rule 405 of the Securities Act.
Indicate by check mark if the registrant is not required to file reports pursuant to Section 13 or Section 15(d) of the Act. Yes ☐
Indicate by check mark whether the registrant (1) has filed all reports required to be filed by Section 13 or 15(d) of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934 during the preceding 12 months (or for such shorter period that the registrant was required to file such reports), and (2) has been subject to such filing requirements for the past 90 days.
Indicate by check mark whether the registrant has submitted electronically every Interactive Data File required to be submitted pursuant to Rule 405 of Regulation S-T during the preceding 12 months (or for such shorter period that the registrant was required to submit such files).
Indicate by check mark whether the registrant is a large accelerated filer, an accelerated filer, a non-accelerated filer, a smaller reporting company or an emerging growth company. See the definitions of "large accelerated filer," "accelerated filer," "smaller reporting company" and "emerging growth company" in Rule 12b-2 of the Exchange Act.
Large accelerated filer ☐ | Non-accelerated filer ☐ | Smaller reporting company | Emerging growth company |
If an emerging growth company, indicate by check mark if the registrant has elected not to use the extended transition period for complying with any new or revised financial accounting standards provided pursuant to Section 13(a) of the Exchange Act. ☐
Indicate by check mark whether the registrant has filed a report on and attestation to its management’s assessment of the effectiveness of its internal control over financial reporting under Section 404(b) of the Sarbanes-Oxley Act (15 U.S.C. 7262(b)) by the registered public accounting firm that prepared or issued its audit report.
Indicate by check mark whether the registrant is a shell company (as defined in Rule 12b-2 of the Act). Yes
As of July 31, 2020, which is the last business day of the registrant’s most recently completed second fiscal quarter, the aggregate market value of the voting stock held by non-affiliates of the registrant (based upon the closing price for the common stock on the New York Stock Exchange on that date) was $
Indicate the number of shares outstanding of each of the registrant’s classes of common stock, as of the latest practicable date.
Title of Each Class |
| Number of Shares Outstanding | |
Common Stock, $1 par value |
Documents Incorporated by Reference
Portions of our proxy statement for our Annual Meeting of Shareholders to be held on June 15, 2021 are incorporated by reference into Part III of this Form 10-K.
Table of Contents
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CAUTIONARY STATEMENTS REGARDING FORWARD-LOOKING STATEMENTS
Our SEC filings and public announcements may include forward-looking statements about future events. Generally, the words "believe," "expect," "intend," "estimate," "anticipate," "project," "will" and similar expressions identify forward-looking statements, which generally are not historical in nature. We intend for all forward-looking statements contained herein, in our press releases or on our website, and all subsequent written and oral forward-looking statements attributable to us or persons acting on our behalf, to be covered by the safe harbor provisions for forward-looking statements within the meaning of the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995 and the provisions of Section 27A of the Securities Act of 1933 and Section 21E of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934 (which Sections were adopted as part of the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995). Such statements are subject to a number of risks, uncertainties and assumptions including, without limitation, the impact of the ongoing coronavirus (COVID-19) pandemic, including uncertainties about its scope and duration (including resurgence of COVID-19 cases), future store closures or other restrictions (including reduced hours and capacity) due to government mandates, and the effectiveness of store re-openings and reduction initiatives (including our ability to effectively renegotiate rent obligations), any or all of which may also affect many of the following risks; demand for our products, which may be impacted by competitive conditions and/or evolving consumer shopping patterns; macroeconomic factors that may impact consumer discretionary spending for apparel and related products; the impact of any restructuring initiatives we may undertake in one or more of our business lines, including the process, timing, costs, uncertainties and effects of our announced exit of the Lanier Apparel business; costs of products as well as the raw materials used in those products; expected pricing levels; costs of labor; the timing of shipments requested by our wholesale customers; expected outcomes of pending or potential litigation and regulatory actions; changes in international, federal or state tax, trade and other laws and regulations, including the potential imposition of additional duties; the ability of business partners, including suppliers, vendors, licensees and landlords, to meet their obligations to us and/or continue our business relationship to the same degree in light of current or future financial stress, staffing shortages, liquidity challenges and/or bankruptcy filings; weather; fluctuations and volatility in global financial markets; retention of and disciplined execution by key management; the timing and cost of store and restaurant openings and remodels, technology implementations and other capital expenditures; acquisition and disposition activities, including our ability to timely recognize expected synergies from acquisitions; access to capital and/or credit markets; the impact of tax and other legislative changes; changes in accounting standards and related guidance; and factors that could affect our consolidated effective tax rate, including estimated Fiscal 2020 taxable losses eligible for carry back under the CARES Act. Forward-looking statements reflect our expectations at the time such forward looking statements are made, based on information available at such time, and are not guarantees of performance. Although we believe that the expectations reflected in such forward-looking statements are reasonable, these expectations could prove inaccurate as such statements involve risks and uncertainties, many of which are beyond our ability to control or predict. Should one or more of these risks or uncertainties, or other risks or uncertainties not currently known to us or that we currently deem to be immaterial, materialize, or should underlying assumptions prove incorrect, actual results may vary materially from those anticipated, estimated or projected. Important factors relating to these risks and uncertainties include, but are not limited to, those described in Part I, Item 1A. Risk Factors and elsewhere in this report and those described from time to time in our future reports filed with the SEC. We caution that one should not place undue reliance on forward-looking statements, which speak only as of the date on which they are made. We disclaim any intention, obligation or duty to update or revise any forward-looking statements, whether as a result of new information, future events or otherwise, except as required by law.
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SUMMARY OF RISKS AFFECTING OUR BUSINESS
Our business is subject to numerous risks. The following summary highlights some of the risks you should consider with respect to our business and prospects. This summary is not complete and the risks summarized below are not the only risks we face. You should review and carefully consider the risks and uncertainties described in more detail in Part I, Item 1A. Risk Factors, which includes a more complete discussion of the risks summarized below:
Risks Related to our Industry and Macroeconomic Conditions ● The COVID-19 pandemic has had, and will continue to have, a material adverse effect on our business, revenues, financial condition and results of operations. ● Our business and financial condition are heavily influenced by general economic and market conditions which are outside of our control. ● We operate in a highly competitive industry and may face competition from companies with significantly greater resources than us. ● Failure to anticipate and adapt to changing fashion trends and consumer preferences could harm our reputation and financial performance. ● Our operations and those of our suppliers, vendors and wholesale customers may be affected by changes in weather patterns, natural or man-made disasters, civil unrest, public health crises, war, terrorism or other catastrophes. Risks Related to our Business Strategy and Operations ● Our inability to execute our direct to consumer and portfolio-level strategies in response to shifts in consumer shopping behavior could adversely affect our financial results and operations. ● Failure to maintain the reputation or value of our brands could harm our business operations and financial condition. ● We may be unable to grow our business through organic growth, which could have a material adverse effect on our business, financial condition, liquidity and results of operations. ● Failure to successfully execute our strategic initiative to improve Tommy Bahama’s operating performance may have an adverse impact on our growth and profitability. ● The acquisition of new businesses is inherently risky, and we cannot be certain that we will realize the anticipated benefits of any acquisition. ● The divestiture or discontinuation of businesses and product lines, such as our exit of the Lanier Apparel business, could result in unexpected liabilities and adversely affect our financial condition, cash flows and results of operations. ● The loss of one or more of our key wholesale customers, or a significant adverse change in a customer’s financial position, could negatively impact our net sales and profitability. ● Our business could be harmed if we fail to maintain proper inventory levels. ● We are subject to risks associated with leasing real estate for our retail stores and restaurants. ● We make use of debt to finance our operations, which exposes us to risks that could adversely affect our business, financial position and operating results. Risks Related to Cybersecurity and Information Technology ● Cybersecurity attacks and/or breaches of information security or privacy could disrupt our operations, cause us to incur additional expenses, expose us to litigation and/or cause us financial harm. ● Our operations are reliant on information technology, and any interruption or other failure could have an adverse effect on our business or results of operations. |
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● Reliance on outdated technology or failure to upgrade our information technology systems and capabilities could impair the efficient operation of our business and our ability to compete. ● Remote work arrangements could inhibit our ability to effectively operate our business and result in enhanced cybersecurity risks. Risks Related to our Sourcing and Distribution Strategies ● Our reliance on third party producers in foreign countries to meet our production demands exposes us to risks that could disrupt our supply chain, increase our costs and negatively impact our operations. ● Any disruption or failure in our primary distribution facilities may materially adversely affect our business or operations. ● Fluctuations and volatility in the cost and availability of raw materials, labor and freight may materially increase our costs. ● Labor-related matters, including labor disputes, may adversely affect our operations. ● Our international operations, including foreign sourcing, result in an exposure to fluctuations in foreign currency exchange rates. ● Our geographic concentration of retail stores, restaurants and wholesale customers exposes us to certain regional risks. Risks Related to Regulatory, Tax and Financial Reporting Matters ● Our business is subject to various federal, foreign, state and local laws and regulations, and the costs of compliance with, or the violation of, such laws and regulations could have an adverse effect on our costs or operations. ● Changes in international trade regulation could increase our costs and disrupt our supply chain. ● Any violation or perceived violation of our codes of conduct or environmental and social compliance programs, including by our manufacturers or vendors, could have a material adverse effect on our brands. ● As a global apparel company, we may experience fluctuations in our tax liabilities and effective tax rate. ● Impairment charges for intangible assets or goodwill could have a material adverse impact on our financial results. ● Any failure to maintain liquor licenses or comply with applicable regulations could adversely affect the profitability of our restaurant operations. General Risks ● Our business depends on our senior management and other key personnel, and failure to successfully attract, retain and implement succession of our senior management and key personnel may have an adverse effect on our operations and ability to execute our strategies. ● We may be unable to protect our trademarks and other intellectual property. ● We are subject to periodic litigation, which may cause us to incur substantial expenses or unexpected liabilities. ● Our common stock price may be highly volatile, and we may be unable to meet investor and analyst expectations. ● Other factors may have an adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition. |
DEFINITIONS
As used in this report, unless the context requires otherwise, "our," "us" or "we" means Oxford Industries, Inc. and its consolidated subsidiaries; "SG&A" means selling, general and administrative expenses; "SEC" means the United
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States Securities and Exchange Commission; "FASB" means the Financial Accounting Standards Board; "ASC" means the FASB Accounting Standards Codification; "GAAP" means generally accepted accounting principles in the United States; "TBBC" means The Beaufort Bonnet Company; "U.S. Tax Reform" means the United States Tax Cuts and Jobs Act and “CARES Act” means the Coronavirus Aid, Relief and Economic Security Act. Additionally, the terms listed below reflect the respective period noted:
Fiscal 2021 | 52 weeks ending January 29, 2022 | ||
Fiscal 2020 | 52 weeks ended January 30, 2021 |
| |
Fiscal 2019 | 52 weeks ended February 1, 2020 | ||
Fiscal 2018 | 52 weeks ended February 2, 2019 | ||
Fiscal 2017 | 53 weeks ended February 3, 2018 | ||
Fiscal 2016 | 52 weeks ended January 28, 2017 | ||
Fiscal 2015 | 52 weeks ended January 30, 2016 | ||
Fourth quarter Fiscal 2020 | 13 weeks ended January 30, 2021 | ||
Third quarter Fiscal 2020 | 13 weeks ended October, 2020 | ||
Second quarter Fiscal 2020 | 13 weeks ended August 1, 2020 | ||
First quarter Fiscal 2020 | 13 weeks ended May 2, 2020 | ||
Fourth quarter Fiscal 2019 | 14 weeks ended February 1, 2020 | ||
Third quarter Fiscal 2019 | 13 weeks ended November 2, 2019 | ||
Second quarter Fiscal 2019 | 13 weeks ended August 3, 2019 | ||
First quarter Fiscal 2019 | 13 weeks ended May 4, 2019 |
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PART I
Item 1. Business
BUSINESS AND PRODUCTS
Overview
We are a leading branded apparel company that designs, sources, markets and distributes products bearing the trademarks of our Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide lifestyle brands and other brands. Tommy Bahama and Lilly Pulitzer, in the aggregate, represent more than 85% of our net sales and 97% of our sales were in the United States.
Our business strategy is to develop and market compelling lifestyle brands and products that evoke a strong emotional response from our target consumers. We consider lifestyle brands to be those brands that have a clearly defined and targeted point of view inspired by an appealing lifestyle or attitude. Furthermore, we believe lifestyle brands that create an emotional connection, like Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide, can command greater loyalty and higher price points at retail and create licensing opportunities. We believe the attraction of a lifestyle brand depends on creating compelling product, effectively communicating the respective lifestyle brand message and distributing products to consumers where and when they want them.
We believe the principal competitive factors in the apparel industry are reputation, value, and image of brand names; design of differentiated, innovative or otherwise compelling product; consumer preference; price; quality; marketing; product fulfillment capabilities; and customer service. Our ability to compete successfully in the apparel industry is directly related to our proficiency in foreseeing changes and trends in fashion and consumer preference and presenting appealing products for consumers. Our design-led, commercially informed lifestyle brand operations strive to provide exciting, differentiated products each season.
To further strengthen each lifestyle brand’s connections with consumers, we directly communicate with consumers through digital and print media on a regular basis. We believe our ability to effectively communicate the images, lifestyle and products of our brands and create an emotional connection with consumers is critical to the success of our brands. Advertising for our brands often attempts to convey the lifestyle of the brand as well as a specific product.
During Fiscal 2020, 77% of our net sales were through our direct to consumer channels of distribution, which consists of our 187 brand-specific full-price retail stores, our e-commerce websites, our 20 Tommy Bahama food and beverage locations and our 35 Tommy Bahama outlet stores. During Fiscal 2020, our e-commerce, retail (including outlet) and restaurant operations represented 43%, 27%, and 7%, respectively, of our net sales compared to 23%, 39%, and 8%, respectively, in Fiscal 2019. Our direct to consumer operations provide us with the opportunity to interact directly with our customers, present to them a broad assortment of our current season products and immerse them in the theme of the lifestyle brand. We believe that presenting our products in a digital or physical setting specifically designed to showcase the lifestyle on which the brands are based enhances the image of our brands.
Our full-price retail stores allow us the opportunity to carry a full line of current season merchandise, including apparel, accessories and other products, all presented in an aspirational brand-specific atmosphere. We believe that our full-price retail stores provide high visibility for our brands and products and allow us to stay close to the preferences of our consumers. Further, we believe that our presentation of products and our strategy to operate the full-price retail stores with limited in-store promotional activities are good for our lifestyle brands and, in turn, enhance business with our wholesale customers. While about one-half of our retail locations are located in resort or travel to destinations and states, we believe there are also opportunities in both warmer and colder climates, as we believe the more important consideration is whether the location attracts the affluent consumer that we are targeting.
Our e-commerce business continues to grow, with e-commerce sales in Fiscal 2020 totaling $324 million and representing 43% of our net sales. Our growing e-commerce business is very profitable for our lifestyle brands as each brand has average e-commerce order values in excess of $100 and a high full-price gross margin in the 70% range. This
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provides a significant amount of profit that is available to pay for the incremental picking, packing and freight expense associated with an e-commerce sale.
We also operate 20 Tommy Bahama food and beverage locations, including 14 restaurants and six Marlin Bars, generally adjacent to a Tommy Bahama full-price retail store location, which we believe further enhance the brand’s image with consumers and 35 Tommy Bahama outlet stores, which play an important role in overall inventory and brand management. Our e-commerce websites provide the opportunity to increase revenues by reaching a larger population of consumers and at the same time allow our brands to provide a broader range of products.
The remaining 23% of our net sales in Fiscal 2020 was generated from our wholesale distribution channels. Our wholesale operations include sales of our lifestyle brands, which complement our direct to consumer operations and provide access to a larger group of consumers, and also includes the net sales of the Lanier Apparel operating group, which we are exiting in the second half of Fiscal 2021. Our wholesale operations of our lifestyle brands include sales to various specialty stores, Signature Stores, better department stores, multi-branded e-commerce retailers and other retailers. As we seek to maintain the integrity of our lifestyle brands by limiting promotional activity in our retail stores and e-commerce websites, we generally target wholesale customers that follow this same approach.
Each of our Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer, Southern Tide and Lanier Apparel operating groups operates in highly competitive apparel markets. No single apparel firm or small group of apparel firms dominates the apparel industry, and our direct competitors vary by operating group and distribution channel. The apparel industry is cyclical and very dependent upon the overall level and focus of discretionary consumer spending, which changes as consumer preferences and regional, domestic and international economic conditions change. Increasingly, consumers are choosing to spend less of their discretionary spending on certain product categories, including apparel, while spending more on services and other product categories. Further, negative economic conditions often have a longer and more severe impact on the apparel industry than on other industries.
The retail apparel market is evolving very rapidly and in ways that are having a disruptive impact on traditional fashion retailing. Many of the changes in the industry were accelerated or exacerbated by the COVID-19 pandemic. The application of technology, including the internet and mobile devices, to fashion retail provides consumers increasing access to multiple, responsive distribution platforms and an unprecedented ability to communicate directly with brands and retailers. As a result, consumers have more information and greater control over information they receive as well as broader, faster and cheaper access to goods than ever before. This is revolutionizing the way that consumers shop for fashion and other goods, which continues to be evidenced by weakness and store closures for certain department stores and mall-based retailers, decreased consumer retail traffic, a more promotional retail environment, expansion of off-price and discount retailers, and a shift from bricks and mortar to internet purchasing. These changes may require that brands and retailers approach their operations, including marketing and advertising, very differently than historical practices and may result in increased operating costs and capital investments to generate growth or even maintain current sales levels.
Investments and Opportunities
While the evolution in the fashion retail industry (including as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic) presents significant risks, especially for traditional retailers and others who fail or are unable to adapt, we believe it also presents a tremendous opportunity for brands and retailers to capitalize on the changing consumer environment. We believe our lifestyle brands have true competitive advantages in this new retailing paradigm, and we are leveraging technology to serve our consumers when and where they want to be served. We continue to believe that our lifestyle brands, with their strong emotional connections with consumers, are well suited to succeed and thrive in the long term while managing the various challenges facing our industry, including the near-term challenges resulting from COVID-19. Further, each of our brands aim to further enhance their customer-focused, dynamic, thriving, digitally-driven, mobile-centered, cross-channel personalized and seamless shopping experience that recognizes and serves customers in their brand discovery and purchasing habits of the future.
Meanwhile, we must be very diligent in our effort to avoid compromising the integrity of our brands by maintaining or growing sales with wholesale customers that may not be aligned with our long-term strategy. This is
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particularly important with the challenges in the department store channel, which represented 9% of our consolidated net sales in Fiscal 2020.
Even before the COVID-19 pandemic, an important initiative for us has been to increase the profitability of our Tommy Bahama operating group, which is our largest operating group. Prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, we made progress in recent years on this initiative, which remains a focus area for the long-term prospects of the business and continues to focus on increasing gross margin and operating margin through: product cost reductions; selective price increases; reducing inventory purchases; redefining our approach to inventory clearance; effectively managing controllable and discretionary operating expenses; and taking a more conservative approach to retail store openings and lease renewals.
In order to maximize the success of each of our brands, we believe we must continue to invest in our lifestyle brands to take advantage of their long-term growth opportunities. Future investments include capital expenditures primarily related to the direct to consumer operations, such as technology enhancements, e-commerce initiatives and retail store and food and beverage build-out for new, relocated or remodeled locations, as well as distribution center and administrative office expansion initiatives.
While we believe we have significant opportunities to appropriately deploy our capital and resources in our existing lifestyle brands, we will continue to evaluate opportunities to add additional lifestyle brands to our portfolio if we identify appropriate targets that meet our investment criteria.
In Fiscal 2020, we made the decision to exit our Lanier Apparel business, which is expected to be completed during the second half of Fiscal 2021. In Fiscal 2020 and Fiscal 2019, Lanier Apparel, which has primarily sold tailored clothing products, represented 5% and 8%, respectively, of our consolidated net sales. This decision is in line with our stated business strategy of developing and marketing compelling lifestyle brands and takes into consideration the increased challenges faced by the Lanier Apparel business, many of which were magnified by the COVID-19 pandemic.
Important factors relating to certain risks, many of which are beyond our ability to control or predict, which could impact our business are described in Part I, Item 1A. Risk Factors of this report.
COVID-19 Pandemic
The COVID-19 pandemic has had a significant effect on overall economic conditions and our operations and is the primary reason for a 33% reduction in net sales and a significant net loss in Fiscal 2020, after years of profitable operating results. While our mission remains the enhancement of long-term shareholder value, our focus during this crisis has been (1) the health and well-being of our employees, customers and communities, (2) protecting the reputation, value and image of our brands and (3) preserving liquidity.
Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, we saw reduced consumer traffic starting in early March 2020 and temporarily closed all our retail and restaurant locations. We began reopening our stores and restaurants in early May 2020 with additional stores and restaurants reopening throughout the Second Quarter of Fiscal 2020. We have reopened substantially all of our direct to consumer locations using a phased approach in accordance with local government guidelines and with additional safety protocols. Substantially all locations are experiencing reduced traffic, limited operating hours and capacity, seating and other limitations, with such factors impacting individual locations differently. Certain retail stores and restaurants, including several in Hawaii and California, were required to close again for certain periods in the Third and Fourth Quarters of Fiscal 2020 after local jurisdictions reinstated some closure requirements. There can be no assurance that additional closures will not occur as a result of any resurgence of COVID-19 cases and/or additional government mandates or recommendations. Generally, locations with attached restaurants or Marlin Bars, in outdoor centers and in drivable resort vacation destinations performed better than locations in indoor malls in Fiscal 2020. At the same time, the shift from in-store shopping to online shopping has accelerated during the COVID-19 pandemic resulting in a 24% growth in our e-commerce businesses during Fiscal 2020.
There is significant uncertainty as to the duration and severity of the pandemic as well as the associated business disruption, impact on discretionary spending and restrictions on our ongoing operations. Thus, the ultimate
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impact of the pandemic cannot be reasonably estimated at this time. However, the COVID-19 pandemic is expected to continue to have a material adverse impact on our business, results of operations, cash flows and financial condition in the near-term due to the anticipated lower net sales from our bricks and mortar locations; reduced demand from our wholesale customers, several of which filed for bankruptcy in 2020 or are undergoing restructurings or closures; the uncertainty as to the continued strength of our brands’ e-commerce businesses during the pendency of the pandemic and thereafter; overall changes in consumer spending habits and consumer confidence; any potential disruptions to our supply chain; and a slowdown in the U.S. and global economies.
We took several actions in Fiscal 2020 to mitigate the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on our business, operations and liquidity, which included:
● | we furloughed and laid off a significant number of our retail, restaurant and office employees; |
● | certain salaried employees, including our Chief Executive Officer, Chief Financial Officer and other executives, took temporary reductions in base salary during Fiscal 2020; |
● | our Board of Directors elected to reduce its cash retainers for Fiscal 2020; |
● | we worked with our suppliers to cancel, delay or suspend future product deliveries; |
● | we worked with our wholesale customers to identify suitable changes to our business arrangements; |
● | we negotiated equitable rental arrangements with substantially all of our direct to consumer location landlords, believing that the payment of rents for both the closure and subsequent periods is inappropriate due to the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic, and are continuing those discussions with some landlords; |
● | under the CARES Act, and other regulations in other countries, we obtained employee retention credits for certain compensation paid to employees even while they were not working during the COVID-19 pandemic and have deferred the payment of the employer portion of FICA; |
● | we suspended, cancelled or deferred certain capital expenditure projects, reducing our capital expenditures for Fiscal 2020; |
● | during much of Fiscal 2020, we had drawn down certain amounts on our U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement to increase our cash position and preserve financial flexibility; and |
● | our Board of Directors reduced the rate of our dividend payable for Fiscal 2020. |
Also, we established management committees, reporting to our Chief Executive Officer, to continue to monitor the COVID-19 pandemic and its impact and are taking the necessary measures to protect the health and safety of our employees and customers.
We anticipate that net sales in each of our Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide operating groups will continue to be negatively impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic in Fiscal 2021, with the impact being more pronounced in the first half of the year and then beginning to rebound a little more in the second half of the year once more consumers are vaccinated, begin to travel again or otherwise begin to return to a more normal way of life.
Given our net cash position as of January 30, 2021, substantial availability under our U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement and expectation of positive cash flows from operations in Fiscal 2021, among other factors, we believe we have adequate liquidity and the financial discipline to address the near-term challenges related to the COVID-19 pandemic and to position ourselves well to thrive in the post-pandemic retail environment.
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Operating Groups
We identify our operating groups based on the way our management organizes the components of our business for purposes of allocating resources and assessing performance. Our operating group structure reflects a brand-focused management approach, emphasizing operational coordination and resource allocation across each brand’s direct to consumer, wholesale and licensing operations, as applicable. Our business has historically been operated primarily through our Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer, Southern Tide and Lanier Apparel operating groups. In Fiscal 2020, we made the decision to exit our Lanier Apparel business, which is expected to be completed during the second half of Fiscal 2021. For additional information about each of our operating groups, see Part II, Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations, and Note 2 to our consolidated financial statements, each included in this report. The table below presents certain financial information about each of our operating groups, as well as Corporate and Other (in thousands).
| Fiscal 2020 |
| Fiscal 2019 |
| Fiscal 2018 | ||||
Net Sales |
|
|
|
|
|
| |||
Tommy Bahama | $ | 419,817 | $ | 676,652 | $ | 675,358 | |||
Lilly Pulitzer |
| 231,078 |
| 284,700 |
| 272,299 | |||
Southern Tide |
| 34,664 |
| 46,409 |
| 45,248 | |||
Lanier Apparel |
| 38,796 |
| 95,200 |
| 99,904 | |||
Corporate and Other |
| 24,478 |
| 19,829 |
| 14,657 | |||
Consolidated net sales | $ | 748,833 | $ | 1,122,790 |
| 1,107,466 | |||
Operating Income (Loss) |
|
|
|
|
|
| |||
Tommy Bahama | $ | (53,310) | $ | 53,207 | $ | 53,139 | |||
Lilly Pulitzer |
| 27,702 |
| 51,795 |
| 47,239 | |||
Southern Tide (1) |
| (64,801) |
| 5,554 |
| 5,663 | |||
Lanier Apparel |
| (26,654) |
| 1,953 |
| 6,000 | |||
Corporate and Other (2) |
| (6,786) |
| (18,834) |
| (21,449) | |||
Consolidated Operating Income | $ | (123,849) | $ | 93,675 |
| 90,592 |
(1) | Southern Tide included a $60 million impairment charge for goodwill and intangible assets in Fiscal 2020, with no such charges in Fiscal 2019 and Fiscal 2018. |
(2) | Corporate and Other included a last-in, first-out (LIFO) accounting credit of $9 million, charge of $1 million and charge of $1 million in Fiscal 2020, Fiscal 2019 and Fiscal 2018, respectively. |
Tommy Bahama
Tommy Bahama designs, sources, markets and distributes men’s and women’s sportswear and related products. Tommy Bahama’s typical consumer is older than 45 years old, has a household annual income in excess of $100,000, lives in or travels to warm weather and resort locations and embraces a relaxed and casual approach to daily living. Tommy Bahama products can be found in our Tommy Bahama stores and on our Tommy Bahama e-commerce website, tommybahama.com, as well as at better department stores, independent specialty stores and multi-branded e-commerce retailers. We also operate Tommy Bahama restaurants and license the Tommy Bahama name for various product categories. During Fiscal 2020, 95% of Tommy Bahama’s sales were to customers within the United States, with the remaining sales in Canada and Australia.
We believe that the attraction to our consumers of the Tommy Bahama brand, which was founded in 1992, is a reflection of our efforts over many years to maintain appropriate quality and design of our Tommy Bahama apparel, accessories and licensed products, limit the distribution of Tommy Bahama products to a select tier of retailers, and effectively communicate the relaxed and casual Tommy Bahama lifestyle. We expect to continue to follow this approach for the brand in the future.
We believe there are ample opportunities to expand the direct to consumer reach of the Tommy Bahama brand in the future, while maintaining its historically select distribution. In order to take advantage of opportunities for long-
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term growth, we must continue to invest in the Tommy Bahama brand. These investments include capital expenditures and ongoing expenses to enhance e-commerce and other technology capabilities; open new stores and restaurants; remodel and/or relocate existing stores and restaurants; maintain and upgrade our distribution and other facilities; and enhance our marketing efforts to communicate the lifestyle to existing and prospective consumers.
Even before the COVID-19 pandemic, an important initiative for us has been to increase the profitability of the Tommy Bahama operating group. Prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, we made progress in recent years on this initiative, which remains a focus area for the long-term prospects of the business and continues to focus on increasing gross margin and operating margin through: product cost reductions; selective price increases; reducing inventory purchases; redefining our approach to inventory clearance; effectively managing controllable and discretionary operating expenses; and taking a more conservative approach to retail store openings and lease renewals.
Direct to Consumer Operations
A key component of our Tommy Bahama strategy is to operate our own stores, restaurants and e-commerce websites, which we believe permits us to develop and build brand awareness by presenting our products in a setting specifically designed to showcase the aspirational lifestyle on which the products are based. Our Tommy Bahama direct to consumer channels, which consist of retail store, e-commerce and restaurant operations, in the aggregate, represented 84% and 80% of Tommy Bahama’s net sales in Fiscal 2020 and Fiscal 2019, respectively. Retail store, e-commerce and restaurant net sales accounted for 37%, 36% and 11%, respectively, of Tommy Bahama’s net sales in Fiscal 2020 compared to 48%, 20% and 12%, respectively, in Fiscal 2019.
Our direct to consumer strategy for the Tommy Bahama brand includes locating and operating full-price retail stores in upscale malls, lifestyle shopping centers, resort destinations and brand-appropriate street locations. Generally, we seek to locate our full-price retail stores in shopping areas and malls that have high-profile or upscale consumer brand adjacencies. As of January 30, 2021, the majority of our Tommy Bahama full-price retail stores were in street-front locations or lifestyle centers with the remainder primarily in regional indoor malls, with a number of those regional indoor locations in resort travel destinations. We believe that we have opportunities for continued direct to consumer sales growth for our Tommy Bahama women’s business, which represented 29% of sales in our full-price direct to consumer operations in Fiscal 2020.
Disposal of discontinued or end of season inventory is an ongoing part of any apparel business and Tommy Bahama uses its outlet stores, sales to off-price retailers and selected initial markdowns in our full-price retail stores and on our e-commerce websites to sell its end of season or excess inventory. Our Tommy Bahama outlet stores, which generated 7% and 9% of our total Tommy Bahama net sales in Fiscal 2020 and Fiscal 2019, respectively, are generally located in outlet shopping centers that include other upscale retailers and serve an important role in overall inventory management by often allowing us to sell discontinued and out-of-season products at better prices than are otherwise available from outside parties. We believe that this approach has helped us protect the integrity of the Tommy Bahama brand by allowing our full-price retail stores to limit promotional activity while controlling the distribution of discontinued and out-of-season product. To supplement the clearance items sold in Tommy Bahama outlets, we merchandise our Tommy Bahama outlets with some made-for products. We anticipate that we would generally expect to operate one outlet for approximately every three full-price retail stores.
As of January 30, 2021, we operated 20 Tommy Bahama food and beverage locations including 14 restaurants and six Marlin Bar locations, generally adjacent to a Tommy Bahama full-price retail store location. These retail-food and beverage locations, which generated approximately 25% of Tommy Bahama’s net sales in Fiscal 2019, provide us with the opportunity to immerse customers in the ultimate Tommy Bahama experience. We do not anticipate that the majority of our retail locations will have an adjacent food and beverage location; however, we have determined that an adjacent food and beverage location can further enhance the image or exposure of the brand in select, high-profile, brand appropriate locations. The net sales per square foot in our domestic full-price retail stores that are adjacent to a food and beverage location have historically been twice the sales per square foot of our other domestic full-price retail stores. We believe that the customer immersing themselves into the Tommy Bahama lifestyle by having a meal or a drink at the Tommy Bahama food and beverage location and visiting the adjacent retail store may entice the customer to purchase additional Tommy Bahama merchandise and potentially provide a memorable consumer experience that further
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enhances the relationship between Tommy Bahama and the consumer. The Marlin Bar concept, like our traditional restaurant locations, is adjacent to one of our retail locations and serves food and beverages, but in a smaller space and with food options more focused on small plate offerings rather than entrees. We believe that with the smaller footprint, reduced labor requirements and lower required capital expenditure for build-out, the Marlin Bar concept provides us with the long-term potential for opening retail-food and beverage locations in sites that otherwise may not have been suitable or brand appropriate for one of our traditional retail-restaurant locations.
The table below provides certain information regarding Tommy Bahama retail stores and restaurants operated by us as of January 30, 2021.
| Full‑Price Retail |
|
| Retail‑Food & Beverage |
| |||
Stores | Outlet Stores | Locations (1) | Total | |||||
Florida |
| 18 |
| 6 |
| 8 |
| 32 |
California |
| 15 |
| 4 |
| 3 |
| 22 |
Texas |
| 6 |
| 4 |
| 2 |
| 12 |
Hawaii |
| 5 |
| 1 |
| 4 |
| 10 |
Nevada |
| 4 |
| 1 |
| 1 |
| 6 |
New York |
| 2 |
| 2 |
| 1 |
| 5 |
Other states |
| 38 |
| 13 |
| 1 |
| 52 |
Total domestic |
| 88 |
| 31 |
| 20 |
| 139 |
Canada |
| 7 |
| 2 |
| — |
| 9 |
Total North America |
| 95 |
| 33 |
| 20 |
| 148 |
Australia |
| 10 |
| 2 |
| — |
| 12 |
Total |
| 105 |
| 35 |
| 20 |
| 160 |
Average square feet per store (2) |
| 3,400 |
| 4,700 |
| 4,300 |
|
|
Total square feet at year end (2) |
| 360,000 |
| 165,000 |
| 85,000 |
|
|
(1) | Consists of 14 traditional format retail-restaurant locations and six Marlin Bar locations. |
(2) | Square feet for retail-restaurant locations consists of retail square footage and excludes square feet used in the associated restaurant operations. |
During Fiscal 2020 Florida, California, Texas and Hawaii represented 35%, 17%, 10% and 7%, respectively, of our Tommy Bahama retail and restaurant sales, while in Fiscal 2019, Florida, California, Texas and Hawaii represented 27%, 17%, 9% and 12%, respectively, of our Tommy Bahama retail and restaurant sales.
The table below reflects the changes in store count for Tommy Bahama locations during Fiscal 2020.
| Full‑Price Retail |
|
| Retail‑Food & Beverage |
| |||
Stores | Outlet Stores | Locations | Total | |||||
Open as of beginning of fiscal year |
| 111 |
| 35 |
| 16 |
| 162 |
Opened |
| 1 |
| 1 |
| 2 |
| 4 |
Marlin Bar conversion | (2) | — | 2 | — | ||||
Closed |
| (5) |
| (1) |
| — |
| (6) |
Open as of end of fiscal year |
| 105 |
| 35 |
| 20 |
| 160 |
In future periods, we anticipate that many of our new store openings will be Marlin Bar locations that are new locations or replace existing full-price retail store or traditional restaurant locations. Currently, we have two openings scheduled for Fiscal 2021 including the Marlin Bar at Fashion Valley in San Diego, which opened in February 2021, and the conversion of the Tommy Bahama retail-restaurant location in Las Vegas to a Marlin Bar, which is scheduled to open in the second half of the year. We continue to look for other appropriate locations for retail stores and Marlin Bars. We believe that in Fiscal 2021, we may close a limited number of locations.
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The operation of full-price retail stores, outlet stores, Marlin Bars and retail-restaurant locations requires a greater amount of initial capital investment than wholesale operations, as well as greater ongoing operating costs. The cost of a traditional Tommy Bahama retail-restaurant location and a Marlin Bar is significantly more than the cost of a full-price retail store and can vary significantly depending on a variety of factors. Historically, the cost of our retail-restaurant locations has been approximately $5 million and the cost of our Marlin Bar locations has been approximately $3 million; however, the cost of a restaurant and Marlin Bar can vary significantly for certain locations. For most of our retail stores and our retail-food and beverage locations, the landlord provides certain incentives to fund a portion of our capital expenditures.
Additionally, we incur capital expenditure costs related to periodic remodels of existing stores, particularly when we renew or extend a lease beyond the original lease term, or otherwise determine that a remodel of a store is appropriate. We also incur capital expenditures when a lease expires, and we determine it is appropriate to relocate to a new location in the same vicinity as the previous store. Alternatively, when a lease expires we may decide to close the store rather than relocating the store to another location or renewing the lease. The capital cost of store relocations is generally comparable to the costs of opening a new full-price retail store or outlet store.
In addition to our full-price retail stores and outlet stores, our direct to consumer approach includes various e-commerce websites, including the tommybahama.com website. During Fiscal 2020 and Fiscal 2019, e-commerce sales represented 36% and 20%, respectively, of Tommy Bahama’s net sales. Our Tommy Bahama website allows consumers to buy Tommy Bahama products directly from us via the internet. These websites also enable us to increase our database of consumer contacts, which allows us to communicate directly and frequently with consenting consumers. As we reach more customers in the future, we anticipate that our e-commerce distribution channel for Tommy Bahama will continue to grow at a faster pace than our domestic full-price retail store operations or wholesale operations.
Wholesale Operations
To complement our direct to consumer operations and have access to a larger group of consumers, we continue to maintain our wholesale operations for Tommy Bahama. Tommy Bahama’s wholesale customers include better department stores, specialty stores and multi-brand e-commerce retailers that generally follow a retail model approach with limited discounting. We value our long-standing relationships with our wholesale customers and are committed to working with them to enhance the success of the Tommy Bahama brand within their stores.
Wholesale sales for Tommy Bahama accounted for 16% and 20% of Tommy Bahama’s net sales in Fiscal 2020 and Fiscal 2019, respectively. Approximately 9% of Tommy Bahama’s net sales reflects sales to major department stores with our remaining wholesale sales primarily sales to specialty stores. During Fiscal 2020, 12% of Tommy Bahama’s net sales were to Tommy Bahama’s 10 largest wholesale customers, with its largest customer representing less than 5% of Tommy Bahama’s net sales.
We believe that the integrity and continued success of the Tommy Bahama brand, including its direct to consumer operations, is dependent, in part, upon controlled wholesale distribution, with careful selection of the retailers through which Tommy Bahama products are sold. As a result of our approach to limiting our wholesale distribution, we believe that sales growth in our men’s apparel wholesale business may be somewhat limited in the long-term. However, we believe that we may have opportunities for wholesale sales increases for our Tommy Bahama women’s business in the future, with its appeal evidenced by its performance in our full-price retail stores and e-commerce websites.
Lilly Pulitzer
Lilly Pulitzer designs, sources, markets and distributes upscale collections of women’s and girl’s dresses, sportswear and related products. The Lilly Pulitzer brand was originally created in the late 1950s by Lilly Pulitzer and is an affluent brand with a heritage and aesthetic based on the Palm Beach resort lifestyle. The brand is somewhat unique among women’s brands in that it has demonstrated multi-generational appeal, including among young women in college or recently graduated from college; young mothers with their daughters; and women who are not tied to the academic calendar. Lilly Pulitzer products can be found in our owned Lilly Pulitzer stores, in Lilly Pulitzer Signature Stores, which are described below, and on our Lilly Pulitzer website, lillypulitzer.com, as well as in better department and
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independent specialty stores. During Fiscal 2020, 50% and 33% of Lilly Pulitzer’s net sales were for women’s sportswear and dresses, respectively, with the remaining sales consisting of Lilly Pulitzer accessories, including scarves, bags, jewelry and belts, children’s apparel, footwear and licensed products.
We believe that there are opportunities to expand the reach of the Lilly Pulitzer brand in the future, while at the same time maintaining its historically select distribution. We believe that in order to take advantage of opportunities for long-term growth, we must continue to invest in the Lilly Pulitzer brand. These investments include enhancing e-commerce and other technology capabilities; opening and operating full-price retail stores; remodeling and/or relocating existing stores; and increasing headcount, advertising and other functions to support the business. While we believe that these investments will generate long-term benefits, the investments may have a short-term negative impact on Lilly Pulitzer’s operating margin, particularly if there is insufficient sales growth to absorb the incremental costs in a particular year.
We believe the attraction of the Lilly Pulitzer brand to our consumers is a reflection of years of maintaining appropriate quality and design, restricting the distribution of Lilly Pulitzer products to a select tier of retailers and effectively communicating the message of Lilly Pulitzer’s optimistic Palm Beach resort chic lifestyle. We believe this approach to quality, design, distribution and communication has been critical in allowing us to achieve the current retail price points for Lilly Pulitzer products.
Direct to Consumer Operations
Lilly Pulitzer’s direct to consumer distribution channel, which consists of full-price retail store and e-commerce operations, represented 84% and 79% of Lilly Pulitzer’s net sales in Fiscal 2020 and Fiscal 2019, respectively. A key element of our Lilly Pulitzer strategy is the lillypulitzer.com website, which represented 64% and 38% of Lilly Pulitzer’s net sales in Fiscal 2020 and Fiscal 2019, respectively. Another key component of our Lilly Pulitzer direct to consumer strategy is to operate our own Lilly Pulitzer stores, which represented 20% and 41% of Lilly Pulitzer’s net sales in Fiscal 2020 and Fiscal 2019, respectively.
The Lilly Pulitzer e-commerce business has experienced significant growth in recent years, and we anticipate that the net sales growth of the e-commerce business will remain strong in the future. We also use the Lilly Pulitzer website as an effective means of liquidating discontinued or out-of-season inventory in a brand appropriate manner and at gross margins in excess of 40% via e-commerce flash clearance sales. These sales are brand appropriate events that create a significant amount of excitement with loyal Lilly Pulitzer consumers, who are looking for an opportunity to purchase Lilly Pulitzer products at a discounted price. These e-commerce flash clearance sales typically run for three days during the summer clearance period in September and for two days during the post-holiday clearance period in January, allowing the Lilly Pulitzer website to generally remain full-price for the remaining 360 days of the year. During Fiscal 2020, approximately one-third of Lilly Pulitzer’s e-commerce sales were e-commerce flash clearance sales. In addition to the e-commerce flash clearance events, in Fiscal 2020, we did have a few select promotional events to sell inventory that had previously been purchased for sale in our retail stores during the year.
Our Lilly Pulitzer retail stores permit us to develop and build brand awareness by presenting Lilly Pulitzer products in a setting specifically designed to showcase the aspirational lifestyle on which they are based. Our retail store strategy for the Lilly Pulitzer brand includes operating full-price retail stores in higher-end lifestyle shopping centers and malls, resort destinations and brand-appropriate street locations. As of January 30, 2021, about 40% of our Lilly Pulitzer stores were located in outdoor regional lifestyle centers and approximately one-third of our Lilly Pulitzer stores were located in indoor regional malls, with the remaining locations in resort or street locations. In certain seasonal locations such as Nantucket and Watch Hill, our stores are only open during the resort season. Additionally, we may open temporary pop-up stores in certain locations.
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The table below provides certain information regarding Lilly Pulitzer full-price retail stores as of January 30, 2021.
| Number of | |
Full‑Price Retail | ||
Stores | ||
Florida |
| 18 |
Massachusetts |
| 7 |
Virginia |
| 5 |
North Carolina |
| 4 |
Ohio |
| 3 |
Texas |
| 3 |
Other |
| 19 |
Total |
| 59 |
Average square feet per store |
| 2,500 |
Total square feet at year-end |
| 150,000 |
During Fiscal 2020 and Fiscal 2019, 51% and 43%, respectively, of Lilly Pulitzer’s retail sales were in stores located in Florida with no other state generating more than 10% of retail sales. The table below reflects the changes in store count for Lilly Pulitzer stores during Fiscal 2020.
| Full‑Price Retail | |
Stores | ||
Open as of beginning of fiscal year |
| 61 |
Opened | — | |
Closed |
| (2) |
Open as of end of fiscal year |
| 59 |
Currently, we are negotiating leases for certain retail store locations and will continue to look for other appropriate locations. We believe that in Fiscal 2021, we may close a limited number of locations. The operation of full-price retail stores requires a greater amount of initial capital investment than wholesale operations, as well as greater ongoing operating costs. We anticipate that most future full-price retail store openings will generally be 2,500 square feet or less on average; however, the determination of actual size of the store will depend on a variety of criteria.
In addition to new store openings, we also incur capital expenditure costs related to remodels or expansions of existing stores, particularly when we renew or extend a lease beyond the original lease term, or otherwise determine that a remodel of a store is appropriate. We may also incur capital expenditures if we determine it is appropriate to relocate a store to a new location. The capital cost of store relocations, if any, will generally be comparable to the cost of opening a new store.
Wholesale Operations
To complement our direct to consumer operations and have access to a larger group of consumers, we continue to maintain our wholesale operations for Lilly Pulitzer. These wholesale operations are primarily with Signature Stores, independent specialty stores, better department stores and multi-branded e-commerce retailers that generally follow a retail model approach with limited discounting. During Fiscal 2020 and Fiscal 2019, approximately 16% and 21%, respectively, of Lilly Pulitzer’s net sales were sales to wholesale customers. During Fiscal 2020, about one-third of Lilly Pulitzer’s wholesale sales were to Lilly Pulitzer’s Signature Stores, one-fourth of Lilly Pulitzer’s wholesale sales were to specialty stores and about one-fifth of Lilly Pulitzer’s wholesale sales, or less than 5% of Lilly Pulitzer’s net sales, were to department stores. The remaining wholesale sales were primarily to national accounts, including on-line retailers, and off-price retailers. Lilly Pulitzer’s net sales to its 10 largest wholesale customers represented 9% of Lilly Pulitzer’s net sales in Fiscal 2020 with its largest customer representing less than 5% of Lilly Pulitzer’s net sales.
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An important part of Lilly Pulitzer’s wholesale distribution is sales to Signature Stores. For these stores, we enter into agreements whereby we grant the other party the right to independently operate one or more stores as a Lilly Pulitzer Signature Store, subject to certain conditions, including designating substantially all floor space specifically for Lilly Pulitzer products and adhering to certain trademark usage requirements. We sell products to these Lilly Pulitzer Signature Stores on a wholesale basis and do not receive royalty income associated with these sales. As of January 30, 2021, there were 44 Lilly Pulitzer Signature Stores.
We believe that the integrity and continued success of the Lilly Pulitzer brand, including its direct to consumer operations, is dependent, in part, upon controlled wholesale distribution with careful selection of the retailers through which Lilly Pulitzer products are sold. We continue to value our long-standing relationships with our wholesale customers and are committed to working with them to enhance the success of the Lilly Pulitzer brand within their stores.
Southern Tide
We acquired the Southern Tide lifestyle apparel brand in Fiscal 2016. Southern Tide designs, sources, markets and distributes high-quality apparel bearing the distinctive Skipjack logo. Southern Tide offers an extensive selection of men’s shirts, pants, shorts, outerwear, ties, swimwear, footwear and accessories, as well as women’s and youth collections. Launched in 2006, Southern Tide combines the modern design elements of today’s youthful trends with love for the Southern culture and lifestyle. The brand has an appeal to all ages who have an appreciation for classic design, vibrant colors and a great fit and an affection for the coast. Southern Tide products can be found at independent specialty retailers, better department stores, Southern Tide Signature Stores which are described below, our Southern Tide website, southerntide.com, and our three Southern Tide retail stores. During Fiscal 2020, 64% of Southern Tide’s sales were wholesale sales, 32% of Southern Tide’s sales were e-commerce sales and 4% of Southern Tide’s sales were retail store sales.
We believe that there is significant opportunity to expand the reach of the Southern Tide brand by further increasing the wholesale presence of the brand and growing the direct to consumer business including e-commerce and retail sales. We believe that wholesale growth and expansion will be at a prudent pace as we believe that the integrity and success of the Southern Tide brand is dependent, in part, upon controlled wholesale distribution with careful selection of the retailers through which Southern Tide products are sold. We anticipate that the direct to consumer operations will grow at a faster pace than wholesale operations fueled by the addition of more owned Southern Tide retail stores in future years, as well as continued growth in our Southern Tide e-commerce operations. We opened the first owned Southern Tide retail store in the Fourth Quarter of Fiscal 2019, and had two additional store openings in Fiscal 2020.
We believe that in order to take advantage of opportunities for long-term growth, we must continue to invest in the Southern Tide brand. While we believe that these investments will generate long-term benefits, the investments may have a short-term negative impact on Southern Tide’s operating margin given the current size of the Southern Tide business.
Wholesale Operations
At this time, Southern Tide’s business is predominantly a wholesale business with sales to independent specialty stores, department stores and Southern Tide Signature Stores. Southern Tide’s wholesale operations provide an opportunity to grow our business and have access to a large group of consumers. During Fiscal 2020, approximately 16% and 7% of Southern Tide’s sales were to department stores and Southern Tide Signature Stores, respectively. Southern Tide’s net sales to its 10 largest wholesale customers represented 30% of Southern Tide’s net sales in Fiscal 2020, with its largest customer representing 12% of Southern Tide’s net sales.
A component of Southern Tide’s wholesale distribution is sales to Signature Stores. For Signature Stores, we enter into license agreements whereby we grant the other party the right to independently operate one or more stores as a Southern Tide Signature Store, subject to certain conditions, including designating substantially all floor space specifically for Southern Tide products and adhering to certain trademark usage requirements. We sell products to these Southern Tide Signature Stores on a wholesale basis and do not receive royalty income associated with these sales. As of
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January 30, 2021, there were 18 Signature Stores including stores in Florida, Massachusetts, South Carolina and North Carolina. We anticipate some additional Signature Stores opening in the future. In addition, we believe there is opportunity for wholesale growth for Southern Tide in women’s apparel, which represented 18% of Southern Tide’s net sales in Fiscal 2020.
Direct to Consumer Operations
A key component of our Southern Tide growth strategy is to expand our direct to consumer operations, which consists of the Southern Tide website and retail store operations. The Southern Tide website markets a full line of merchandise, including apparel and accessories, all presented in a manner intended to enhance the Southern Tide image, brand awareness and acceptance. We believe our Southern Tide website enables us to stay close to the needs and preferences of consumers. In addition to off-price retailers, we also use the Southern Tide website as a means of liquidating discontinued or out-of-season inventory in a brand appropriate manner. During the year, we have a number of e-commerce clearance sales events, which are typically in industry end of season promotional periods.
In the Fourth Quarter of Fiscal 2019, we opened our first owned Southern Tide retail store in Jacksonville, Florida. In Fiscal 2020, we opened retail stores in Fort Lauderdale and Destin, Florida. In Fiscal 2021, we plan to open a retail store in Islamadora, Florida and we continue to look at additional opportunities for locations that may open later in the year. In the last couple of years, we prepared for these store openings and roll-out by supplementing the Southern Tide leadership team with retail management experience.
The operation of full-price retail stores requires a greater amount of initial capital investment than wholesale operations, as well as greater ongoing operating costs. We anticipate that most future full-price retail store openings will generally be approximately 2,000 square feet on average; however, the determination of actual size of the store will depend on a variety of criteria. We anticipate that for most of our full-price retail stores, the landlord will provide certain incentives to fund a portion of our capital expenditures.
Lanier Apparel
In Fiscal 2020, we made the decision to exit our Lanier Apparel business, which is expected to be completed during the second half of Fiscal 2021. This decision is in line with our stated business strategy of developing and marketing compelling lifestyle brands and takes into consideration the increased challenges faced by the Lanier Apparel business, many of which were magnified by the COVID-19 pandemic.
Lanier Apparel designs, sources and distributes branded and private label men’s apparel, primarily consisting of tailored clothing and casual pants, across a wide range of price points, but primarily at moderate price points. The moderate price point tailored clothing market has been an extremely competitive sector for years, with significant retail competition as well as increasing gross margin pressures due to retail sales price pressures and production cost increases.
The majority of our Lanier Apparel products were historically sold under certain trademarks licensed to us by third parties including Kenneth Cole®, Dockers®, Cole Haan® and Nick Graham®. Additionally, we designed and marketed products for our owned Billy London®, Oxford®, and Strong Suit® brands. In addition to these branded businesses, Lanier Apparel designed and sourced private label apparel products for certain customers. Lanier Apparel products are sold through large retailers including department stores, discount and off-price retailers, warehouse clubs, national chains, specialty retailers, multi-branded e-commerce retailers and others.
In Lanier Apparel, we historically had long-standing relationships with some of the United States’ largest retailers, including department stores which represented approximately 30% of Lanier Apparel’s sales in Fiscal 2020. Lanier Apparel’s three largest customers represented 20%, 15% and 10%, respectively, of Lanier Apparel’s net sales in Fiscal 2020, while sales to Lanier Apparel’s 10 largest customers represented more than 77% of Lanier Apparel’s net sales during Fiscal 2020. Approximately 70% of Lanier Apparel’s product purchases were from manufacturers located in Vietnam, with a significant concentration of purchases from just a few manufacturers.
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Corporate and Other
Corporate and Other is a reconciling category for reporting purposes and includes our corporate offices, substantially all financing activities, the elimination of inter-segment sales and any other items that are not allocated to the operating groups including LIFO accounting adjustments. Because our LIFO inventory pool does not correspond to our operating group definitions, LIFO inventory accounting adjustments are not allocated to the operating groups. Corporate and Other also includes the operations of other businesses which are not included in our four operating groups. The operations of TBBC, Duck Head® and our Lyons, Georgia distribution center are included in Corporate and Other. TBBC designs, sources, markets and distributes premium childrenswear including bonnets, hats, apparel, swimwear and accessories through the TBBC e-commerce website, thebeaufortbonnetcompany.com, as well as wholesale specialty retailers. Duck Head designs, sources, markets and distributes premium men’s apparel including pants, shorts and tops through the Duck Head e-commerce website, duckhead.com, as well as wholesale specialty retailers.
TRADEMARKS
We own trademarks, many of which are very important and valuable to our business including Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide. Generally, our trademarks are subject to registrations and pending applications throughout the world for use on apparel and, in some cases, apparel-related products, accessories, home furnishings and beauty products, as well as in connection with retail services. We continue to evaluate our worldwide usage and registration of our trademarks. In general, trademarks remain valid and enforceable as long as the trademarks are used in connection with our products and services in the relevant jurisdiction and the required registration renewals are filed. Important factors relating to risks associated with our trademarks include, but are not limited to, those described in Part I, Item 1A. Risk Factors.
ADVERTISING AND MARKETING
During Fiscal 2020 and Fiscal 2019, we incurred $50 million and $56 million, respectively of advertising expense. Advertising and marketing are an integral part of the long-term strategy for our lifestyle brands, and we therefore devote significant resources to these efforts. Thus, we believe that it is very important that our brands communicate regularly with consumers about product offerings or other brand events in order to maintain and strengthen connections with consumers. Our advertising emphasizes the respective brand’s image and lifestyle and attempts to engage individuals within the target consumer demographic and guide them on a regular basis to our e-commerce websites, retail stores or wholesale customers’ stores and websites in search of our products.
We increasingly utilize digital marketing, social media and email, as well as direct mail, to interact with consumers. Our marketing may also include sponsorships, collaborations, and co-branding initiatives, which may be for a particular cause or non-profit organization that is expected to resonate with target consumers, and traditional media such as catalogs, print and other correspondence with consumers.
We vary our engagement tactics to elevate the consumer experience as we attract new consumers, drive conversion, build loyalty, activate consumer advocacy and address the transformation of consumer shopping behaviors. Our creative marketing teams design and produce imagery and content, social media strategies, email and print campaigns designed to drive traffic to our direct to consumer locations and websites as well as to increase influencer amplification. We attempt to increase our brand awareness through a strategic emphasis on technology and continuing to elevate our digital presence which encompasses e-commerce, mobile e-commerce, digital media, social media and influencer marketing. We are also investing in analytical capabilities to promote a more personalized experience across our distribution channels. We continue to innovate to better meet consumer online shopping preferences (e.g. loyalty, ratings and reviews and mobile phone applications) and build brand equity. The COVID-19 pandemic has had a significant impact on consumer behaviors and has accelerated the trend for a digital first consumer. This provided a catalyst for accelerating the implementation of new direct to consumer business models and consumer engagement programs, such as selling through social media.
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Marketing initiatives in our direct to consumer operations may include special event promotions, including loyalty award card, Flip Side, Friends & Family and gift with purchase events and a variety of public relations activities designed to create awareness of our brands and products, drive traffic to our websites and stores, convert new consumers and increase demand and loyalty. Our various initiatives are effective in increasing online and in-store traffic resulting in the proportion of our sales that occur during our marketing initiatives increasing in recent years, which puts some downward pressure on our direct to consumer gross margins.
We believe that highly visible full-price retail store locations with creative design, broad merchandise selection and brand appropriate visual presentation are key enticements for customers to visit and buy merchandise. We believe that full-price retail stores attract new consumers and enhance the shopping experience of our existing customers, which will increase consumer brand loyalty, our net sales and sales of our products for our wholesale customers.
For certain of our wholesale customers, we may also provide point-of-sale materials and signage to enhance the presentation of our products at their retail locations and/or participate in cooperative advertising programs.
PRODUCT DESIGN
We believe the principal competitive factors in the apparel industry are the reputation, value, and image of brand names; design of differentiated, innovative or otherwise compelling product; consumer preference; price; quality; marketing; product fulfillment capabilities; and customer service. Our ability to compete successfully in the apparel industry is directly related to our proficiency in foreseeing changes and trends in fashion and consumer preference and presenting appealing products for consumers. Our design-led, commercially informed lifestyle brand operations strive to provide exciting, differentiated products each season.
Each of our lifestyle brands’ products are designed and developed by dedicated brand-specific teams who focus on the target consumer for the respective brand. The design process includes feedback from buyers, consumers and sales agents, along with market trend research. Our apparel products generally incorporate fabrics made of cotton, silk, linen, nylon, leather, tencel and other natural and man-made fibers, or blends of two or more of these materials.
PRODUCT SOURCING AND CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY
We intend to maintain flexible, diversified, cost-effective sourcing operations that provide high-quality apparel and related products. Our operating groups, either internally, using in-house employees located in the United States and/or Hong Kong, or through the use of third party buying agents, manage the production and sourcing of substantially all of our apparel and related products from non-exclusive, third party producers located in foreign countries.
Although we place a high value on long-term relationships with our suppliers of apparel and related products and have used many of our suppliers for a number of years, generally we do not have long-term contracts with our suppliers. Instead, we conduct business on an order-by-order basis. Thus, we compete with other companies for the production capacity of independent manufacturers. We believe that this approach provides us with the greatest flexibility in identifying the appropriate manufacturers while considering quality, cost, timing of product delivery and other criteria. We generally acquire products sold in our restaurant operations from various third party domestic suppliers. During Fiscal 2020, no individual third party manufacturer, licensee or other supplier provided more than 10% of our product purchases in total or for our Tommy Bahama and Lilly Pulitzer operating groups, while the purchases for our smaller operating groups and businesses each had certain vendors that provided more than 10% of product purchases. During Fiscal 2020, we purchased our products from approximately 300 suppliers with the 10 largest suppliers providing approximately 25% of our product purchases.
The production of our apparel and related products has a significant concentration in Asia. During Fiscal 2020 approximately 35% and 22%, compared to 49% and 18% for Fiscal 2019, of our apparel and related products, excluding restaurant products, acquired directly by us or via buying agents, were from producers located in China and Vietnam, respectively with no other country representing more than 10% of such purchases. For Fiscal 2020, the percentage of products sourced from China for our Tommy Bahama and Lilly Pulitzer operating groups were 47% and 28%,
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respectively, with the percentage concentration from China for both operating groups decreasing from the prior year. We expect that the percentage of our products sourced from producers located in China will decrease further.
We purchase substantially all of our apparel and related products from third party producers as package purchases of finished goods, which are manufactured with oversight by us or our third party buying agents and to our design and fabric specifications. The use of contract manufacturers reduces the amount of capital investment required by us, as operating manufacturing facilities can require a significant amount of capital investment. We depend on third party producers to secure a sufficient supply of specified raw materials, adequately finance the production of goods ordered and maintain sufficient manufacturing and shipping capacity. We believe that purchasing substantially all of our products as package purchases allows us to reduce our working capital requirements as we are not required to purchase, or finance the purchase of, the raw materials or other production costs related to our apparel and related product purchases until we take ownership of the finished goods, which typically occurs when the goods are shipped by the third party producers. In addition to purchasing products from third parties, our Lanier Apparel operating group operated an owned manufacturing facility located in Merida, Mexico, which ceased operations in Fiscal 2020.
As the design, manufacture and transportation of apparel and related products for our brands may take as many as six months for each season, we typically make commitments months in advance of when products will arrive in our retail stores or our wholesale customers’ stores. We continue to seek ways to reduce the time required from design and ordering to bringing products to our customers. As our merchandising departments must estimate our requirements for finished goods purchases for our own retail stores and e-commerce sites based on historical product demand data and other factors, and as purchases for our wholesale accounts must be committed to prior to the receipt of customer orders, we carry the risk that we have purchased more inventory than will ultimately be desired or that we will not have purchased sufficient inventory to satisfy demand, resulting in lost sales opportunities.
As part of our commitment to source our products in a lawful, ethical and socially responsible manner, each of our operating groups has implemented a code of conduct program applicable to vendors from whom we purchase apparel and related products, which includes provisions related to abiding by applicable laws as well as compliance with other business or ethical standards, including related human rights, health, safety, working conditions, environmental and other requirements. We require that each of our vendors and licensees comply with the applicable code of conduct or substantially similar compliance standards. All of our vendors from whom we purchase goods are also required by us to adhere to the United States Customs and Border Protection’s Customs-Trade Partnership Against Terrorism program, including standards relating to facility, procedural, personnel and cargo security. On an ongoing basis we assess vendors’ compliance with the applicable code of conduct and applicable laws and regulations through audits performed by either our employees or our designated agents. The assessment of compliance by vendors is directed by our corporate leadership team. In the event we determine that a vendor is not abiding by our required standards, we work with the vendor to remediate the violation. If the violation is not satisfactorily remediated, we will discontinue use of the vendor. For more information on our initiatives with respect to corporate social responsibility, please visit our website at oxfordinc.com.
IMPORT RESTRICTIONS AND OTHER GOVERNMENT REGULATIONS
We are exposed to certain risks as a result of our international operations as substantially all of our merchandise, as well as the products purchased by our licensing partners, is manufactured by foreign suppliers. During Fiscal 2020, approximately 35% and 22% of our apparel and related products, excluding restaurant products, acquired directly by us or via buying agents, were from producers located in China and Vietnam, respectively, with no other country representing more than 10% of such purchases. Products imported by us, or imported by others and ultimately sold to us, are subject to customs, trade and other laws and regulations governing their entry into the United States and other countries where we sell our products, including various federal, state and local laws and regulations that govern any of our activities that may have adverse environmental, health and safety effects. Noncompliance with these laws and regulations may result in significant monetary penalties.
Substantially all of the merchandise we acquire is subject to certain duties which are assessed on the value of the imported product. These amounts represent a component of the inventories we sell and are included in cost of goods sold in our consolidated statements of operations. We paid total duties of more than $30 million and $45 million on
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products imported into the United States directly by us in Fiscal 2020 and Fiscal 2019, respectively, with the average duty rate on those products of approximately 17% of the value of the imported product in Fiscal 2020. Duty rates vary depending on the type of garment, fiber content and country of origin and are subject to change in future periods. In addition, while the World Trade Organization’s member nations have eliminated quotas on apparel and textiles, the United States and other countries into which we import our products are still allowed in certain circumstances to unilaterally impose "anti-dumping" or "countervailing" duties in response to threats to their comparable domestic industries.
Although we have not been materially inhibited from sourcing products from desired markets in the past, we cannot assure that significant impediments will not arise in the future as we expand product offerings and brands and enter into new markets. In recent years the United States government has implemented additional duties on certain product categories across various industries. It is possible that additional duty increases could occur in future years, which could have a significant unfavorable impact on the apparel retail industry and our cost of goods sold, operations, net sales, net earnings and cash flows. Our management regularly monitors proposed regulatory changes and the existing regulatory environment, including any impact on our operations or on our ability to import products. As a result of these changes and increased costs of production in certain countries that unfavorably impact our cost of goods sold, we continue to make changes in our supply chain, including exiting certain factories and sourcing those products from a factory in a different foreign country.
In addition, apparel and other related products sold by us are subject to stringent and complex product performance and security and safety standards, laws and other regulations. These regulations relate principally to product labeling, certification of product safety and importer security procedures. We believe that we are in material compliance with those regulations. Our licensed products and licensing partners are also generally subject to such regulation. Our agreements require our licensing partners to operate in compliance with all laws and regulations.
Important factors relating to risks associated with government regulations include those described in Part I, Item 1A. Risk Factors.
DISTRIBUTION CENTERS
We operate four distribution centers, with each operating group generally serviced by one distribution center. Our Auburn, Washington, King of Prussia, Pennsylvania and Toccoa, Georgia distribution centers serve our Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Lanier Apparel operating groups, respectively. Our Lyons, Georgia distribution center provides services for our smaller Southern Tide, TBBC and Duck Head businesses, as well as our Lilly Pulitzer business and certain third party customers.
Activities at the distribution centers include receiving finished goods from suppliers, inspecting the products and shipping the products to our retail store, e-commerce and wholesale customers, each as applicable. We seek to maintain sufficient levels of inventory at the distribution centers to support our direct to consumer operations, as well as pre-booked, at-once and some in-stock replenishment orders for our wholesale customers. We use a local third party distribution center for our Tommy Bahama Australia operations.
More than 75% of our net sales in Fiscal 2020 were direct to consumer sales, which are filled on a current basis; accordingly, an order backlog is not material to our business.
INFORMATION TECHNOLOGIES
We believe that sophisticated information systems and functionality are important components of maintaining our competitive position and supporting continued growth of our businesses, particularly in the ever-changing consumer shopping environment. Our information systems are designed to provide effective retail store, e-commerce, restaurant and wholesale operations while emphasizing efficient point-of-sale, distribution center, design, sourcing, order processing, marketing, customer relationship management, accounting and other functions. We regularly evaluate the adequacy of our information technologies and upgrade or enhance our systems to gain operating efficiencies, to provide additional consumer access and to support our anticipated growth as well as other changes in our business. We believe
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that continuous upgrading and enhancements to our information systems with newer technology that offers greater efficiency, functionality and reporting capabilities is critical to our operations and financial condition.
LICENSING AGREEMENTS
We license the Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide trademarks to licensees in categories beyond our brands’ core product categories. We believe licensing is an attractive business opportunity for our larger lifestyle brands. Once a brand is more fully established, licensing typically requires modest additional investment but can yield high-margin income. It also affords the opportunity to enhance overall brand awareness and exposure. In evaluating a licensee for our brands, we typically consider the candidate’s experience, financial stability, sourcing expertise and marketing ability. We also evaluate the marketability and compatibility of the proposed licensed products with our products.
Our agreements with our licensees are brand specific, relate to specific geographic areas and have expirations at various dates in the future, with contingent renewal options in limited cases. Generally, the agreements require minimum royalty payments as well as royalty payments based on specified percentages of the licensee’s net sales of the licensed products as well as certain obligations for advertising and marketing. Our license agreements generally provide us the right to approve all products, advertising and proposed channels of distribution.
We license the Tommy Bahama brand for a broad range of product categories including indoor furniture, outdoor furniture, beach chairs, bedding and bath linens, fabrics, leather goods and gifts, headwear, hosiery, sleepwear, shampoo, toiletries, fragrances, cigar accessories, distilled spirits and other products. Third party license arrangements for Lilly Pulitzer products include stationery and gift products; home furnishing products; and eyewear. We currently license the Southern Tide trademark to licensees for certain bed and bath product categories.
In addition to our license arrangements for the specific product categories listed above, we may enter into certain international distributor agreements which allow those parties to distribute apparel and other products on a wholesale and/or retail basis within certain countries or regions. As of January 30, 2021, we have agreements for the distribution of Tommy Bahama products in the Middle East and parts of Latin America. The products sold by the distributors generally are identical to the products sold in our own Tommy Bahama stores. In addition to selling Tommy Bahama goods to wholesale accounts, the distributors may, in some cases, operate their own retail stores. As of January 30, 2021, we have licensed Tommy Bahama stores located in the Middle East and Central America. None of these international distributor agreements are expected to generate growth that would materially impact our operating results in the near term.
SEASONAL ASPECTS OF BUSINESS
Each of our operating groups is impacted by seasonality as the demand by specific product or style, as well as by distribution channel, may vary significantly depending on the time of year. Typically, the demand for products for our larger brands and principal markets is higher in the spring, summer and holiday seasons and lower in the fall season (generally, the third quarter of our fiscal year). As a result, our quarterly operating results and working capital requirements fluctuate significantly from quarter to quarter, with the third quarter historically having the lowest net sales compared to our other quarters and incurring an operating loss. Further, the impact of the timing of certain unusual or non-recurring items, economic conditions, wholesale product shipments, weather or other factors affecting our operations may vary from one year to the next. Therefore, we do not believe that net sales or operating income for any particular quarter or the distribution of net sales and operating income for Fiscal 2019 or Fiscal 2020 are indicative of the expected distribution in future years, particularly in light of the COVID-19 pandemic’s significant impact on our Fiscal 2020 operating results.
HUMAN CAPITAL MANAGEMENT
Our key strategy is to own brands that make people happy, and we recognize that successful execution of our strategy starts with people. We believe treating people fairly and with respect is key to long-term success and, more importantly, is simply the right thing to do.
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As of January 30, 2021, we employed approximately 3,900 individuals globally, more than 95% of whom were in the United States. Approximately 2,700 and 800 of these employees were dedicated to our Tommy Bahama and Lilly Pulitzer businesses, respectively, while approximately 70% of our employees were retail store and restaurant employees. Our employee base fluctuates during the year, as we typically hire seasonal employees to support our retail store and restaurant operations, primarily during the holiday selling season. None of our employees as of January 30, 2021 was represented by unions.
Fiscal 2020 was a challenging year for our company, with the COVID-19 pandemic causing temporary, extended closures of all of our retail stores and restaurants in the First Half of Fiscal 2020 and significantly disrupting the retail apparel industry. Even after reopening certain of our bricks and mortar operations, due to government and health requirements and guidelines, we elected to offer only limited curbside pickup at some locations and restrict operating hours, where necessary. We also made some difficult decisions to strategically reduce our workforce to right-size our operations to preserve liquidity in the short-term but, more importantly, position ourselves to thrive in a post-pandemic retail environment. As a result, our total employee headcount declined more than 30% from the end of Fiscal 2019 to the end of Fiscal 2020.
Commitment to our Core Values
Our actions are guided by our company’s core values:
● | Integrity – Build trust through honest relationships. Do the right thing. |
● | Respect – Have respect for oneself and for one another. Lead by example. Exercise humility. |
● | Inclusion – Root our relationships with one another in understanding, awareness and mutual respect. Value and embrace diversity. Welcome the respectful, open expression of differing ideas and perspectives. |
● | Accountability – Own our words, decisions and actions. Earn our reputation. |
● | Teamwork – Show up for each other. Solve problems through good and transparent communication. Know we are strongest when we work as a team. |
● | Curiosity – Improve and innovate. Simplify and streamline. Embrace change. Challenge ourselves. |
We believe that our adherence to these core values in everything we do as a company furthers our good relations with employees, suppliers and customers.
Talent and Development
We are always looking for great people to join our team. We recognize that in order to remain competitive, we must attract, develop and retain top caliber employees in our design, marketing, merchandising, information technology and other functions, as well as in our retail stores, restaurants and distribution centers. Competition for talented employees is intense.
In furtherance of attracting and retaining employees committed to our core values and business strategy, we maintain competitive compensation programs that include a variety of components, including competitive pay consistent with skill level, experience and knowledge, as well as comprehensive benefit plans consisting of health and welfare plans, retirement benefits and paid leave for our employee base in the United States.
In 2018, we launched an ongoing initiative to assess how well we’re doing in managing performance, developing our people and putting our talent to its highest and best use across our company. Our aim is greater employee engagement and ultimately a more effective organization. As part of our commitment to our people, throughout our brands and businesses, we provide employees with training, growth and development opportunities, including on-the-job training, learning and development programs, and other educational programs.
Health and Safety
We are committed to maintaining a clean, safe and healthy work environment for all of our employees. In the interest of the health and safety of our employees, we made the preemptive decision prior to government mandate to close all of our retail store and restaurant operations in North America starting on March 17, 2020. For our distribution
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centers that continued to operate to service our e-commerce operations, as well as our retail stores, restaurants and corporate office operations that reopened at various points during Fiscal 2020, we have been carefully monitoring guidelines published by the Center for Disease Control and Prevention and have established a number of safety protocols, including face covering and physical distance policies, enhanced cleaning, daily self-health checks and temperature screenings. We continue to review, monitor and revise our protocols, as appropriate.
Diversity & Inclusion
Our ongoing commitment to having the best people includes a commitment to equal opportunity. We believe in a diverse and inclusive workplace that respects and invites differing ideas and perspective.
As of January 30, 2021, our global workforce was self-disclosed as 38% male, 62% female and less than 1% undisclosed or choosing not to identify. Among our management employees, who comprise approximately 20% of our workforce, the self-disclosed figures were 33% male, 67% female and less than 1% undisclosed or choosing not to identify. As of January 30, 2021, in the United States, which is the only jurisdiction in which our employees self-disclose ethnicity, the self-disclosed ethnicity of our workforce was 62% white (not Hispanic or Latino) and 38% non-white, whereas for management employees in the United States, the self-disclosed ethnicity figures were 78% white (not Hispanic or Latino) and 22% non-white.
We make a concerted effort to encourage the exchange of ideas and to actively listen to employee dialogue, provide appropriate training and ensure that the interests of all our employees are supported and advanced. We hope to maintain an environment where there is a sense of belonging and all voices are heard and valued.
Additional Information
For more information on our human capital management efforts, visit the Corporate Responsibility section of our website at https://www.oxfordinc.com/corporate-responsibility.
INFORMATION
Oxford Industries, Inc. is a Georgia corporation originally founded in 1942. Our corporate headquarters are located at 999 Peachtree Street, N.E., Ste. 688, Atlanta, Georgia 30309. Our internet address is oxfordinc.com. Copies of our annual report on Form 10-K, proxy statement, quarterly reports on Form 10-Q and current reports on Form 8-K, and amendments to those reports filed or furnished pursuant to Section 13(a) or 15(d) of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934, as amended, are available free of charge on our website the same day that they are electronically filed with the SEC. The information on our website is not and should not be considered part of this Annual Report on Form 10-K and is not incorporated by reference in this document.
Item 1A. Risk Factors
The risks described below highlight some of the factors that could materially affect our operations. If any of these risks actually occurs, our business, financial condition, prospects and/or operating results may be adversely affected. These are not the only risks and uncertainties we face. Additional risks and uncertainties that we currently consider immaterial or are not presently known to us may also adversely affect our business.
Risks Related to our Industry and Macroeconomic Conditions
The COVID-19 pandemic has had, and will continue to have, a material adverse effect on our business, revenues, financial condition and results of operations.
The ongoing COVID-19 pandemic has severely restricted the level of economic activity around the world. In response to this pandemic, governments and public health officials of many countries, states, cities and other geographic regions have taken preventative or protective actions to mitigate the spread and severity of the coronavirus, such as imposing restrictions on travel and business operations and advising or requiring individuals to limit or forego their time
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outside of their homes. Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, we temporarily closed all our retail stores and restaurants in the First Half of Fiscal 2020.
Although almost all of our stores and restaurants are open at this time, the operations of our stores continue to be impacted by requirements imposed by state and local governments with respect to occupancy levels, indoor dining and health and safety measures. In addition, our business is particularly sensitive to reductions in discretionary consumer spending, and we cannot predict the duration or severity of the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on our business. There continue to be numerous uncertainties associated with the COVID-19 pandemic, including the timing and efficacy of vaccine distribution in the regions where we operate, the willingness of the public to be vaccinated, the potential spread of new variants of COVID-19, and the actions of governments and third parties in response to any resurgence of COVID-19 cases or spread of new variants. Further, even after containment of the virus, any prolonged reduction in consumer traffic, consumer willingness to visit malls and shopping centers or levels of consumer discretionary spending would result in a further loss of revenues.
The COVID-19 pandemic has also impacted, and may continue to impact, our office locations, distribution centers and shipping vendors, which may negatively impact our ability to meet consumer demand and may increase our costs of production and distribution. Our fulfillment of customer orders depends on third party shipping vendors. Service delays or disruptions, restrictions on services available to us or price increases imposed by these vendors due to increased demand or operational challenges as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic could lead to higher expenses or an inability to deliver merchandise to our customers. Any failure to deliver customer orders on a timely and consistent basis could result in returns, requests for refunds, cancellation of orders or lost sales and could harm our reputation and relationships with our customers.
Any of the negative impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic, alone or in combination with others, could exacerbate many of the other risk factors discussed in this report. The full extent to which the COVID-19 pandemic will negatively affect our results of operations, financial condition and cash flows will depend on future developments that are highly uncertain and cannot be predicted.
Our business and financial condition are heavily influenced by general economic and market conditions which are outside of our control.
We are a consumer products company and are highly dependent on consumer discretionary spending and retail traffic patterns, particularly in the United States. The demand for apparel products changes as regional, domestic and international economic conditions change and may be significantly impacted by trends in consumer confidence and discretionary consumer spending patterns, which may be influenced by employment levels; recessions; inflation; fuel and energy costs; interest rates; tax rates; personal debt levels; savings rates; stock market and housing market volatility; shifting social ideology; and general uncertainty about the future. The factors impacting consumer confidence and discretionary consumer spending patterns are outside of our control and difficult to predict, and, often, the apparel industry experiences longer periods of recession and greater declines than the general economy. In addition, as the growth in our direct to consumer operations continues to outpace our other operations, we have increased exposure to the risks associated with a volatile and unpredictable economic environment. Any decline in consumer confidence or change in discretionary consumer spending patterns could reduce our sales and/or adversely affect our business and financial condition.
The agenda of the new U.S. presidential administration includes a number of potential policy and legislation changes, including changes to U.S. tax legislation that could adversely affect our effective tax rate and to economic policies which could impact general economic conditions. Any such changes to U.S. policy or legislation could have a greater effect on us compared to our peers as a result of the concentration of our operations in the United States.
We operate in a highly competitive industry and may face competition from companies with significantly greater resources than us.
We operate in a highly competitive industry in which the principal competitive factors are the reputation, value and image of brand names; design of differentiated, innovative or otherwise compelling product; consumer preference;
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price; quality; marketing; product fulfillment capabilities; and customer service. The highly competitive apparel industry is characterized by low barriers to entry, with new competition entering the marketplace regularly. There are numerous domestic and foreign apparel designers, manufacturers, distributors, importers, licensors and retailers, some of whom are also our customers. Some of these companies may be significantly larger or more diversified than us and/or have significantly greater financial resources than we do. Competitive factors within the apparel industry may result in reduced sales, increased costs, lower prices for our products and/or decreased margins.
Failure to anticipate and adapt to changing fashion trends and consumer preferences could harm our reputation and financial performance.
We believe that our ability to compete successfully is directly related to our proficiency in foreseeing changes and trends in fashion and consumer preference and presenting appealing products for consumers when and where they seek it. Although certain of our products carry over from season to season, the apparel industry is subject to rapidly changing fashion trends and shifting consumer expectations, as evidenced by the recent acceleration of casualization trends in the apparel industry in the midst of the COVID-19 pandemic. There can be no assurance that we will be able to successfully evaluate and adapt our products to align with consumer preferences and changes in consumer demographics. Any failure on our part to develop and market appealing products could harm the reputation and desirability of our brands and products and/or result in weakened financial performance.
Our operations and those of our suppliers, vendors and wholesale customers may be affected by changes in weather patterns, natural or man-made disasters, civil unrest, public health crises, war, terrorism or other catastrophes.
Our sales volume and operations and the operations of third parties on whom we rely, including our suppliers, vendors, licensees and wholesale customers, may be adversely affected by unseasonable or severe weather conditions, natural or man-made disasters, public health crises, war, terrorist attacks, including heightened security measures and responsive military actions, or other catastrophes which may cause consumers to alter their purchasing habits or result in a disruption to our operations. Our business may also be adversely affected by instability, disruption or destruction, regardless of cause, including civil insurrection or unrest. These events may result in closures of our retail stores, restaurants, offices or distribution centers and/or declines in consumer traffic, which could have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations or financial condition. Because of the seasonality of our business, the concentration of a significant proportion of our retail stores and wholesale customers in certain geographic regions, including a resort and/or coastal focus for most of our lifestyle brands, and the concentration of our sourcing and distribution center operations, the occurrence of such events could disproportionately impact our business, financial condition and operating results.
Risks Related to our Business Strategy and Operations
Our inability to execute our direct to consumer and portfolio-level strategies in response to shifts in consumer shopping behavior could adversely affect our financial results and operations.
One of our key long-term initiatives over the last several years has been to grow our branded businesses through distribution strategies that allow our consumers to access our brands whenever and wherever they choose to shop. Our ability to anticipate and transform our business in response to the manner in which retail consumers seek to transact business and access products requires us to introduce new retail, restaurant and other concepts in suitable locations; anticipate and implement innovations in sales and marketing technology to align with our consumers’ shopping preferences; invest in appropriate digital and other technologies; establish the infrastructure necessary to support growth; maintain brand specific websites and mobile applications that offer the functionality and security customers expect; and effectively enhance our advertising and marketing activities, including our social media presence, to maintain our current customers and attract and introduce new consumers to our brands and offerings.
Even prior to the emergence of the COVID-19 pandemic, the retail apparel market was evolving very rapidly in ways that are disruptive to traditional fashion retailers. These changes included sustained declines in bricks and mortar retail traffic; entry into the fashion retail space by large e-commerce retailers and others with significant financial resources and enhanced distribution capabilities; increased investment in technology and multi-channel distribution
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strategies by large, traditional bricks and mortar and big box retailers; ongoing emphasis on off-price and fast fashion channels of distribution, in particular those who offer brand label products at clearance; and increased appeal for consumers of products that incorporate sustainable materials and processes in the supply chain and/or otherwise reflect their social or personal values. In response, traditional fashion retailers and competing brands have increasingly offered greater transparency for consumers in product pricing and continue to engage in increased promotional activities, both online and in-store. These trends accelerated during the COVID-19 pandemic and are likely to continue to evolve in ways that may not yet be evident. Any inability on our part to effectively adapt to rapidly evolving consumer behavioral trends may result in lost sales, increase our costs and/or adversely impact our results of operations, financial condition, reputation and credibility.
Failure to maintain the reputation or value of our brands could harm our business operations and financial condition.
Our success depends on the reputation and value of our brand names. The value of our brands could be diminished by actions taken by us or by our licensees, wholesale customers or others who have an interest in our brands. Actions that could cause harm to our brands include failing to respond to emerging fashion trends or meet consumer quality expectations; selling products bearing our brands through distribution channels that are inconsistent with customer expectations; becoming overly promotional; or setting up consumer expectations for promotional activity for our products. It is possible that certain actions taken by us in response to the COVID-19 pandemic could impair the reputation or image of our brands despite our focus on protecting the long-term value of our brands. In addition, social media is a critical marketing and customer acquisition strategy in today’s technology-driven retail environment, and the value of our brands could be adversely affected if we do not effectively communicate our brand message through social media vehicles, including with respect to our social responsibility and sustainability initiatives. The significant concentration in our portfolio heightens the risks we face if one of our brands is adversely impacted by actions we or third parties take with respect to that brand.
The improper or detrimental actions of a licensee or wholesale customer could also significantly impact the perception of our brands. While we enter into comprehensive license and similar collaborative agreements with third party licensees covering product design, product quality, brand standards, sourcing, social compliance, distribution, operations, manufacturing and/or marketing requirements and approvals, there can be no guarantee our brands will not be negatively impacted through our association with products or concepts outside of our core apparel products and by the market perception of the third parties with whom we associate. In addition, we cannot always control the marketing and promotion of our products by our wholesale customers, and actions by such parties that adversely affect the appeal of our products could diminish the value or reputation of one or more of our brands and have an adverse effect on our sales, gross margins and business operations. We may also elect to enter into retail or wholesale distribution arrangements, or joint ventures, with third parties for certain international markets, and such arrangements are subject to a number of risks and uncertainties, including our reliance on the operational skill and expertise of a local operator, the ability of the operator to appropriately represent our brands in those markets and any protective rights to which the third party may be entitled.
We may be unable to grow our business through organic growth, which could have a material adverse effect on our business, financial condition, liquidity and results of operations.
A key component of our business strategy is organic growth in our brands, the importance of which is heightened as we seek to return to full operating performance and gross margins following contractions in our business and the industry as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic. Organic growth may be achieved by, among other things, increasing sales in our direct to consumer channels; selling our products in new markets; increasing our market share in existing markets; expanding the demographic appeal of our brands; expanding our margins through product cost reductions, price increases or otherwise; expanding the customer reach of our brands through new and enhanced advertising initiatives; and increasing the product offerings and concepts within our various operating groups, such as the opening of additional Marlin Bars at Tommy Bahama and owned retail stores at Southern Tide. Successful growth of our business is also subject to our ability to implement plans for expanding and/or maintaining our existing businesses at satisfactory levels. We may not be successful in achieving suitable organic growth, and our inability to grow our business may have a material adverse effect on our business, financial condition, liquidity and results of operations.
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In addition, investments we make in technology, advertising and infrastructure, retail stores and restaurants, office and distribution center facilities, personnel and elsewhere may not yield the full benefits we anticipate, and sales growth may be outpaced by increases in operating costs, putting downward pressure on our operating margins and adversely affecting our results of operations. If we are unable to increase our revenues organically, we may be required to pursue other strategic initiatives, including reductions in costs and/or acquisitions, in order to grow our business. These initiatives may not be available to us on desirable terms, inhibiting our ability to increase profitability.
Failure to successfully execute our strategic initiative to improve Tommy Bahama’s operating performance may have an adverse impact on our growth and profitability.
Tommy Bahama, which represented 56% of our net sales in Fiscal 2020 and maintains a larger bricks and mortar footprint and fixed cost structure, faced several years of lower operating margins. Entering Fiscal 2020, we were in the process of implementing and executing a multi-year initiative to improve Tommy Bahama’s operating performance and long-term growth prospects, which included an enhanced outlet and clearance strategy, improved gross margin through selective price increases and reduced product costs, selective right-sizing of our store footprint, controlling and reducing overhead and operating expenses, implementing marketing initiatives targeting new customer acquisition and improving the Tommy Bahama customer experience. A strategic initiative of this nature is inherently challenging and faces significant potential risks, with the COVID-19 pandemic magnifying the challenges facing Tommy Bahama and requiring adaptability to today’s more digital retail environment. Any failure in our execution of this strategy, including delays and/or cost overruns, may adversely affect our ability to achieve long-term sustainable sales and operating margin growth and at the same time may detract from our focus and execution of other strategic initiatives.
The acquisition of new businesses is inherently risky, and we cannot be certain that we will realize the anticipated benefits of any acquisition.
Growth of our business through acquisitions of lifestyle brands that fit within our business model is a component of our long-term business strategy. The competitive climate for desirable acquisition candidates drives higher market multiples, and we may pay more to consummate an acquisition than the value we derive from the acquired business. Acquisitions may cause us to incur debt or make dilutive issuances of our equity securities. Additionally, as a result of acquisitions, we may become responsible for unexpected liabilities that we failed or were unable to discover in the course of performing due diligence.
In addition, the benefits of an acquisition may not materialize to the extent or within the time periods anticipated. Integrating acquired businesses is a complex, time-consuming and expensive process. The integration process for newly acquired businesses could create a number of challenges and adverse consequences for us associated with the integration of product lines, support functions, employees, sales teams and outsourced manufacturers; employee turnover, including key management and creative personnel of the acquired business and our existing businesses; disruption in product cycles for newly acquired product lines; maintenance of acceptable standards, controls, procedures and policies; operating business in new geographic territories; diversion of the attention of our management from other areas of our business; and the impairment of relationships with customers of the acquired and existing businesses. Furthermore, certain acquisitions may also be structured utilizing contingent consideration based on the acquired business’ post-acquisition results, and the principals from whom we acquired such a business, many of whom may continue to operate the business as our employees, may have differing interests than those of our shareholders because of such arrangements.
As the fashion retail environment evolves, our investment criteria for acquisitions has grown to include smaller brands and non-controlling investments in burgeoning brands seeking debt or equity financing. The limited operating history, less experienced management teams and less sophisticated systems, infrastructure and relationships generally associated with such brands may heighten the risks associated with acquisitions generally. Minority investments present additional risks, including the potential disproportionate distraction to our management team relative to the potential financial benefit; the potential for a conflict of interest; the damage to our reputation of associating with a brand which may take actions inconsistent with our values; and the financial risks associated with making an investment in an unproven business model.
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The divestiture or discontinuation of businesses and product lines, such as our exit of the Lanier Apparel business, could result in unexpected liabilities and adversely affect our financial condition, cash flows and results of operations.
From time to time, we also divest or discontinue businesses, product lines and/or programs, including exiting relationships with certain wholesale customers, including department stores, that do not align with our strategy or provide the returns that we expect or desire. Such dispositions and/or discontinuations may result in underutilization of our retained resources if the exited operations are not replaced with new lines of business, either internally or through acquisition. In addition, we may become responsible for unexpected liabilities, some of which may be triggered or increased by a purchaser’s operation of the disposed business following the transaction. Those liabilities combined with any other liabilities we contractually retain, individually or in the aggregate, could adversely affect our financial condition and results of operations.
In December 2020, we announced that we are exiting the Lanier Apparel business, which is expected to be completed during the Second Half of Fiscal 2021. We took significant charges and established reserves during the Second Half of Fiscal 2020 and have also made estimates as to the future financial impact of an orderly exit. However, if we are unable to effectively, efficiently and timely execute the wind down of our Lanier Apparel business, we may incur additional costs and cash outflows. Given the significant uncertainties about the retail environment during the pendency of the COVID-19 pandemic, there can be no assurance that we will complete the Lanier Apparel exit in a timely fashion in accordance with our current plans. Our announcement and subsequent actions in furtherance of the wind down may subject us to substantial risks and uncertainties that may result in a material adverse effect on our financial condition, cash flows and results of operations, including our ability to retain Lanier Apparel employees through the wind down; the potential for other losses in excess of our current expectations, including those resulting from third party relationships impacted by our decision; and the diversion of senior management’s attention from our ongoing operations while executing the exit from the Lanier Apparel business.
The loss of one or more of our key wholesale customers, or a significant adverse change in a customer’s financial position, could negatively impact our net sales and profitability.
We generate a significant percentage of our wholesale sales, which was 23% of our net sales in Fiscal 2020, from a few key customers, with our three largest customers representing 13%, 10% and 8%, respectively of our consolidated wholesale sales in Fiscal 2020. Over the last several years, department stores and other large retailers have faced increased competition from online competitors, declining sales and profitability and tightened credit markets, resulting in store closures, bankruptcies and financial restructurings. These challenges have been exacerbated by the COVID-19 pandemic and resulting economic downturn. Restructuring of our customers’ operations, continued store closures or increased direct sourcing by customers could negatively impact our net sales and profitability.
We also extend credit to most of our key wholesale customers without requiring collateral, which results in a large amount of receivables from just a few customers. A significant adverse change in a customer’s financial position or ability to satisfy its obligations to us could cause us to limit or discontinue business with that customer, in some cases after we have already made product purchase commitments for inventory; require us to assume greater credit risk relating to that customer’s receivables; or limit our ability to collect amounts related to shipments to that customer. In addition, a decision by one or more of our key wholesale customers to terminate its relationship with us or to reduce its purchases from us or our licensees, whether motivated by competitive considerations, a change in desired product assortment, quality or style issues, financial difficulties, economic conditions or otherwise, could also adversely affect our business.
Our business could be harmed if we fail to maintain proper inventory levels.
Many factors, such as economic conditions, fashion trends, consumer preferences, the financial condition of our wholesale customers and weather, make it difficult to accurately forecast demand for our products. In order to meet the expected demand for our products in a cost-effective manner, we make commitments for production several months prior to our receipt of goods and typically without firm commitments from our customers. Depending on the demand for our products, we may be unable to sell the products we have ordered or that we have in our inventory, which may result
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in inventory markdowns, costs incurred to cancel inventory purchases or the sale of excess inventory at discounted prices and through off-price channels. These events, many of which were exacerbated by the COVID-19 pandemic, could significantly harm our operating results and impair the image of our brands. Conversely, if we underestimate demand for our products or if we are unable to access our products when we need them, for example due to a third party manufacturer’s inability to source materials or produce goods in a timely fashion or as a result of delays in the delivery of products to us, we may experience inventory shortages, which might result in unfilled orders, negatively impact customer relationships, diminish brand loyalty and result in lost sales, any of which could harm our business. These risks relating to inventory may also escalate as our direct to consumer sales, for which we do not have any advance purchase commitments, continue to increase as a proportion of our consolidated net sales.
We are subject to risks associated with leasing real estate for our retail stores and restaurants.
We lease all of our retail store and restaurant locations. Successful operation of our retail stores and restaurants depends, in part, on our ability to identify desirable, brand appropriate locations; the overall ability of the location to attract a consumer base sufficient to make sales volume profitable; our ability to negotiate satisfactory lease terms and employ qualified personnel; and our ability to timely construct and complete any build-out and open the location in accordance with our plans. A decline in the volume of consumer traffic at our retail stores and restaurants, due to economic conditions, shifts in consumer shopping preferences or technology, a decline in the popularity of malls or lifestyle centers in general or at those in which we operate, the closing of anchor stores or other adjacent tenants or otherwise, all of which have been exacerbated by the COVID-19 pandemic, have had and could continue to have a negative impact on our sales, gross margin and results of operations. Our growth may be limited if we are unable to identify new locations with consumer traffic sufficient to support a profitable sales level or the local market reception to a new retail store opening is inconsistent with our expectations.
Our retail store and restaurant leases generally represent long-term financial commitments, with substantial costs at lease inception for a location’s design, leasehold improvements, fixtures and systems installation and recurring fixed costs. On an ongoing basis, we review the financial performance of our retail and restaurant locations in order to determine whether continued operation is appropriate. Even if we determine that it is desirable to exit a particular location, we may be unable to close an underperforming location due to continuous use clauses and/or because negotiating an early termination would be cost prohibitive. In addition, due to the fixed-cost structure associated with these operations, negative cash flows or the closure of a retail store or restaurant could result in impairment of leasehold improvements, impairment of operating lease assets and/or other long-lived assets, severance costs, lease termination costs or the loss of working capital, which could adversely impact our business and financial results. Furthermore, as each of our leases expire, we may be unable to negotiate renewals, either on commercially acceptable terms or at all, which could force us to close retail stores and/or restaurants in desirable locations.
As a result of temporary retail store and restaurant closures and ongoing depressed consumer traffic due to the COVID-19 pandemic, we determined that the payment of rents that might have otherwise been due under our retail store and restaurant leases was inappropriate. Accordingly, with limited exceptions where alternative arrangements with our landlords had been finalized, we discontinued rent payments starting in April 2020. We have negotiated equitable rental arrangements with substantially all of the landlords for our retail and restaurant locations and are confident that we will be able to resolve these matters with the landlords for our remaining locations. However, there can be no assurances, and some of these outstanding landlords may choose to claim that our non-payment constitutes a default under our leases. Successful claims against us, if any, could materially affect our business, operations, financial condition and future growth. Even where successful, litigation could be costly, distract our management and result in reputational harm. In addition, if a resurgence of COVID-19 cases or the spread of new variants require us to close our stores and restaurants or further restrict our operations, we may not be able to negotiate further equitable arrangements with our landlords in respect of such future closures or restrictions.
We make use of debt to finance our operations, which exposes us to risks that could adversely affect our business, financial position and operating results.
The continued growth of our business depends on our access to sufficient funds. Our levels of debt vary as a result of the seasonality of our business, investments in our operations and working capital needs, and the terms or forms
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of our financing arrangements may change. If the need arises in the future to finance expenditures in excess of those supported by our existing credit facility, we may need to seek additional funding through debt or equity financing. Our ability to obtain that financing will depend on many factors, including prevailing market conditions, our financial condition and our ability to negotiate favorable terms and conditions. The terms of any such financing or our inability to secure such financing could adversely affect our ability to execute our strategies, and the negative covenants in our debt agreements, now or in the future, may increase our vulnerability to adverse economic and industry conditions and/or limit our flexibility in carrying out our business strategy and plans.
In addition, we have interest rate risk on indebtedness under our variable rate U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement. Our exposure to variable rate indebtedness may increase in the future, based on our debt levels and/or the terms of future financing arrangements. Further, an increase in the interest rate environment would require us to pay a greater amount towards interest, even if the amount of borrowings outstanding remains the same.
A portion of our indebtedness under the U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement at any time may use the London Interbank Offered Rate (LIBOR) as the benchmark for establishing the interest rate. Recent regulatory reform efforts may cause LIBOR to cease to exist, new methods of calculating LIBOR to be established or the use of an alternative reference rate(s). As the future of LIBOR at this time is uncertain, the potential effect of any future changes cannot yet be determined but could adversely impact our interest expense and, thus, our results of operations.
Risks Related to Cybersecurity and Information Technology
Cybersecurity attacks and/or breaches of information security or privacy could disrupt our operations, cause us to incur additional expenses, expose us to litigation and/or cause us financial harm.
Cybersecurity attacks continue to become increasingly sophisticated, and experienced computer programmers and hackers may be able to penetrate our network security and misappropriate or compromise our assets, including confidential information, or disrupt our systems. We collect, use, store and transmit sensitive and confidential personal information of our customers, employees, suppliers and others as an ongoing part of our business operations, and we are regularly subject to attempts by attackers to gain unauthorized access to our networks, systems and data, or to obtain, change or destroy confidential information. In addition, customers may use devices or software that are beyond our control environment to purchase our products, which may provide additional avenues for attackers to gain access to confidential information.
Despite our implementation of security measures, if an actual or perceived data security breach occurs, whether as a result of cybersecurity attacks, computer viruses, vandalism, ransomware, human error or otherwise, or if there are perceived vulnerabilities in our systems, the image of our brands and our reputation and credibility could be damaged, and, in some cases, our continued operations may be impaired or restricted. Ongoing and increasing costs to enhance cybersecurity protection and prevent, eliminate or mitigate vulnerabilities and comply with required security or other measures under state, federal and international laws, which may include deploying additional personnel and protection technologies, training employees and engaging third party experts and consultants, are significant. Although we have business continuity plans and other safeguards in place, our operations may be adversely affected by an actual or perceived data security breach. Costs to resolve any litigation or to investigate any actual or perceived breach could result in significant financial losses and expenses, as well as lost sales. While we continue to evolve and modify our business continuity plans, there can be no assurance in an escalating threat environment that they will be effective in avoiding disruption and business impacts.
As part of our routine operations, we also contract with third party service providers to store, process and transmit personal information of our customers and employees. Although we contractually require that these providers implement reasonable security measures, we cannot control third parties and cannot guarantee that a security breach will not occur at their location or within their systems. Privacy breaches of confidential information stored or used by our third party service providers or disruptions in their systems may expose us to the same risks as a breach of our own systems, including negative publicity, potential out-of-pocket costs and adverse effects on our business and customer relationships.
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Our operations are reliant on information technology, and any interruption or other failure could have an adverse effect on our business or results of operations.
The efficient operation of our business depends on information technology. This requires us to devote significant financial and employee resources to information technology initiatives and operations. Information systems are used in all stages of our operations and as a method of communication, both internally and with our customers, service providers and suppliers. Many of our information technology solutions are operated and/or maintained by third parties, including our use of cloud-based solutions. Additionally, each of our operating groups uses e-commerce websites, point-of-sale systems, enterprise order management systems, warehouse management systems and wholesale ordering systems to acquire, manage, sell and distribute goods. Our management also relies on information systems to provide relevant and accurate information in order to allocate resources, manage operations and forecast, account for and report our operating results. Service interruptions may occur as a result of a number of factors, including power outages, consumer traffic levels, computer viruses, sabotage, hacking or other unlawful activities by third parties, human error, disasters or failures to properly install, upgrade, integrate, protect, repair or maintain our various systems, networks and e-commerce websites. All of these events could have a material adverse effect on our financial condition and results of operations.
Reliance on outdated technology or failure to upgrade our information technology systems and capabilities could impair the efficient operation of our business and our ability to compete.
Any failure to timely upgrade our technology systems and capabilities may impair our ability to market, sell and deliver products to our customers, efficiently conduct our operations and/or meet the needs of our management. We regularly evaluate upgrades or enhancements to our information systems to more efficiently and competitively operate our businesses, including periodic upgrades to digital commerce and marketing, warehouse management, guest relations, omnichannel and/or enterprise order management systems in our businesses. Digital commerce and marketing has continued to increase in importance to our business, and if we fail to develop and maintain the digital strategies, systems, expertise and capabilities necessary for us to compete effectively in this arena, our results of operations could be adversely impacted. Upgrades to our systems may be expensive undertakings, may not be successful and/or could be abandoned, as we did in the Fourth Quarter of Fiscal 2020 with a Tommy Bahama information technology project. We may also experience difficulties during the implementation, upgrade or subsequent operation of our systems, including the risk of introducing cybersecurity vulnerabilities into our systems or the loss of certain functionality, information from our legacy systems and/or efficient interfaces with third party and continuing systems. Temporary processes or solutions, including manual operations, which may be required to be instituted in the short term could also significantly increase the risk of loss or corruption of data and information.
Remote work arrangements could inhibit our ability to effectively operate our business and result in enhanced cybersecurity risks.
In March 2020, we temporarily closed our corporate offices and implemented remote work arrangements for our corporate and office employees as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic. The majority of our corporate and office employees continue to perform some or all of their duties on a remote basis, and we anticipate continuing to implement remote work arrangements for a substantial portion of our employees in the future. If remote work arrangements negatively impact the performance or management of our employees, whether as a result of technological challenges, unsuitable work environments or other limitations, our ability to carry out key functions and successfully manage our operations could be compromised. In addition, remote work arrangements could exacerbate our existing cybersecurity and privacy risks, including by introducing vulnerabilities in our systems due to the use of laptops, mobile devices and remote work environments. Cybersecurity attacks or data security incidents resulting from a failure to manage these risks could negatively impact our business and results of operations.
Risks Related to our Sourcing and Distribution Strategies
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Our reliance on third party producers in foreign countries to meet our production demands exposes us to risks that could disrupt our supply chain, increase our costs and negatively impact our operations.
We source substantially all of our products from non-exclusive, third party producers located in foreign countries. Although we place a high value on long-term relationships with our suppliers, generally we do not have long-term supply contracts but instead conduct business on an order-by-order basis. Therefore, we compete with other companies for the production capacity of independent manufacturers. We also depend on the ability of these third party producers to secure a sufficient supply of raw materials, adequately finance the production of goods ordered and maintain sufficient manufacturing and shipping capacity, and in some cases, the products we purchase and the raw materials that are used in our products are available only from one source or a limited number of sources. Although we monitor production in third party manufacturing locations, we cannot be certain that we will not experience operational difficulties with our manufacturers, such as the reduction of available production capacity, errors in complying with product specifications, insufficient quality control, failures to meet production deadlines or increases in manufacturing costs. In addition, we may experience disruptions in our supply chain as we continue to diversify the jurisdictions from which we source products. Any such difficulties may impact our ability to deliver quality products to our customers on a timely basis, negatively impact our customer relationships and result in lower net sales and profits.
Any disruption or failure in our primary distribution facilities may materially adversely affect our business or operations.
We rely on our primary distribution facilities in order to support our direct to consumer and wholesale operations, meet customer fulfillment expectations, manage inventory, complete sales and achieve operating efficiencies. We may have a greater risk than our peers due to the concentration of our distribution facilities, as substantially all of our products for each operating group are distributed through one or two principal distribution centers. The primary distribution facilities that we operate are as follows: a distribution center in Auburn, Washington dedicated to our Tommy Bahama products; a distribution center in King of Prussia, Pennsylvania dedicated to our Lilly Pulitzer products; a distribution center in Toccoa, Georgia dedicated to our Lanier Apparel products; and a distribution center in Lyons, Georgia primarily dedicated to our Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide products. Although we continue to enhance our enterprise order management capabilities to deliver products from other physical locations, our ability to effectively support our direct to consumer and wholesale operations, meet customer expectations, manage inventory and achieve objectives for operating efficiencies depends on the proper operation of these distribution facilities, each of which manages the receipt, storage, sorting, packing and distribution of finished goods.
If any of our primary distribution facilities were to shut down or otherwise become inoperable or inaccessible for any reason, including as a result of natural or man-made disasters, pandemics or epidemics (including, for example, the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic), human error, or cybersecurity attacks or computer viruses, or if we are unable to receive or ship the goods in a distribution center, as a result of a technology failure or otherwise, we could experience a substantial loss of inventory, a reduction in sales, higher costs, insufficient inventory at our retail stores to meet consumer expectations and longer lead times associated with the distribution of our products. In addition, for the distribution facilities that we operate, there are substantial fixed costs associated with these large, highly automated distribution centers, and we could experience reduced operating and cost efficiencies during periods of economic weakness. Any disruption to our distribution facilities or in their efficient operation could negatively affect our operating results and our customer relationships.
Fluctuations and volatility in the cost and availability of raw materials, labor and freight may materially increase our costs.
We and our third party suppliers rely on the availability of raw materials at reasonable prices. The principal fabrics used in our business are cotton, linens, wools, silk, other natural fibers, synthetics and blends of these materials. The prices paid for these fabrics depend on the market price for raw materials used to produce them. The cost of the materials and components that are used in our manufacturing process, such as oil-related commodity prices and other raw materials, such as dyes and chemicals, and other costs, can fluctuate. We historically have not entered into any futures contracts to hedge commodity prices, and in recent years, we have seen significant variability in the costs of certain raw materials, including cotton and oil. These pricing fluctuations could continue in future years.
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We have also seen increases in the cost of labor in our retail, restaurant and distribution center operations as well as at many of our suppliers in recent years. Employment costs are affected by labor markets, as well as various federal, state and foreign laws governing matters such as minimum wage rates, overtime compensation and other requirements. In addition, in recent years, there has been significant political pressure and legislative action to increase the minimum wage rate in many of the jurisdictions in which we operate, and the new U.S. presidential administration may advocate for similar wage rate increases on a federal level. We have also experienced increases in freight costs and distribution and logistics functions as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic and other factors and may continue to see such cost pressures, including as a result of the recent blockage of freight through the Suez Canal. Although we attempt to mitigate the effect of increases in our cost of goods sold, labor costs, occupancy costs, other operational costs and SG&A items through sourcing initiatives and by selectively increasing the prices of our products, we may be unable to fully pass on these costs to our customers, and material increases in our costs may reduce the profitability of our operations and/or adversely impact our results of operations.
Labor-related matters, including labor disputes, may adversely affect our operations.
We may be adversely affected as a result of labor disputes in our own operations or in those of third parties with whom we work. Our business depends on our ability to source and distribute products in a timely manner, and our new retail store and restaurant growth is dependent on timely construction of our locations. While we are not subject to any organized labor agreements and have historically enjoyed good employee relations, there can be no assurance that we will not experience work stoppages or other labor problems in the future with our non-unionized employees. In addition, potential labor disputes at independent factories where our goods are produced, shipping ports or transportation carriers create risks for our business, particularly if a dispute results in work slowdowns, lockouts, strikes or other disruptions during our peak manufacturing, shipping and selling seasons. Further, we plan our inventory purchases and forecasts based on the anticipated timing of retail store and restaurant openings, which could be delayed as a result of a number of factors, including labor disputes among contractors engaged to construct our locations or within government licensing or permitting offices. Any potential labor dispute, either in our own operations or in those of third parties on whom we rely, could materially affect our costs, decrease our sales, harm our reputation or otherwise negatively affect our operations.
Our international operations, including foreign sourcing, result in an exposure to fluctuations in foreign currency exchange rates.
We are exposed to certain currency exchange risks in conducting business outside of the United States. The substantial majority of our product purchases are from foreign vendors and are denominated in U.S. dollars. If the value of the U.S. dollar decreases relative to certain foreign currencies in the future, then the prices that we negotiate for products could increase and we may be unable to pass this increase on to customers, which would negatively impact our margins. However, if the value of the U.S. dollar increases between the time a price is set and payment for a product, the price we pay may be higher than that paid for comparable goods by competitors that pay for goods in local currencies, and these competitors may be able to sell their products at more competitive prices. An increase in the value of the U.S. dollar compared to other currencies in which we have sales could also result in lower levels of sales and earnings reported in our consolidated statements of operations and lower gross margins. Additionally, currency fluctuations could also disrupt the business of our independent manufacturers by making their purchases of raw materials more expensive and difficult to finance.
Our geographic concentration of retail stores, restaurants and wholesale customers exposes us to certain regional risks.
Our operations and retail and restaurant locations are heavily concentrated in the United States and certain geographic areas within the United States, including Florida, California, Texas and Hawaii for our Tommy Bahama operations and Florida, Massachusetts and Virginia for our Lilly Pulitzer operations. Additionally, the wholesale sales for each of Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide are also geographically concentrated, including in geographic areas where we have concentrations of our own retail store locations. Due to these concentrations, as well as our brands’ association with the resort lifestyle and destinations, we have heightened exposure to factors that impact these regions, including general economic conditions, weather patterns, natural disasters, public health crises, changing demographics and other factors.
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Risks Related to Regulatory, Tax and Financial Reporting Matters
Our business is subject to various federal, foreign, state and local laws and regulations, and the costs of compliance with, or the violation of, such laws and regulations could have an adverse effect on our costs or operations.
We are subject to stringent standards, laws and other regulations, including those relating to health, product performance and safety, labor, employment, privacy and data security, anti-bribery, consumer protection, taxation, customs, logistics and other operational matters. These laws and regulations, in the United States and abroad, are complex and often vary widely by jurisdiction, making it difficult for us to ensure that we are currently or will in the future be compliant with all applicable laws and regulations in all the states and countries in which we operate. In addition to the local laws of the foreign countries in which we operate, we are subject to certain anti-corruption laws, including the U.S. Foreign Corrupt Practices Act. If any of our international operations, or our employees or agents, violates such laws, we could become subject to sanctions or other penalties that could negatively affect our reputation, business and operating results.
We may be required to make significant expenditures and devote significant time and management resources to comply with existing or future laws or regulations, and a violation of applicable laws and regulations by us, or any of our suppliers or licensees, may restrict our ability to import products, require a recall of our products, lead to fines or otherwise increase our costs, negatively impact our ability to attract and retain employees or materially limit our ability to operate our business. In addition, regardless of whether any allegations of violations of the laws and regulations governing our business are valid or whether we ultimately become liable, we may be materially affected by negative publicity as a result of such allegations.
In particular, the regulatory environment governing our use of individually identifiable data is complex, and compliance with new and modified state, federal and international privacy and security laws, such as the General Data Protection Regulation in the E.U. and the California Consumer Privacy Act and similar laws being contemplated in other states, may require us to modify our operations and/or incur costs to make necessary systems changes and implement new administrative processes. In addition, because we process and transmit payment card information, we are subject to the payment card industry data security standard and card brand operating rules, which provide for a comprehensive set of rules relating to the retention and/or transmission of payment card information. If we do not comply with the applicable standards, we may be subject to fines or restrictions on our ability to accept payment cards, which could have a material adverse effect on our operations.
Changes in international trade regulation could increase our costs and disrupt our supply chain.
Due to our international sourcing activities, we are exposed to risks associated with changes in the laws and regulations governing the importing and exporting of apparel products into and from the countries in which we operate. These risks include imposition of additional or new antidumping, countervailing or other duties, tariffs, taxes, quota restrictions; government-imposed restrictions as a result of public health issues, such as the ongoing COVID-19 outbreak; changes in customs procedures for importing apparel products; restrictions on the transfer of funds to or from foreign countries; and the issuance of sanctions and trade orders. Any of these factors may disrupt our supply chain, and we may be unable to offset any associated cost increases by shifting production to suitable manufacturers in other jurisdictions in a timely manner or at acceptable prices, and future regulatory actions or changes in international trade regulation may provide our competitors with a material advantage over us or render our products less desirable in the marketplace.
Any violation or perceived violation of our codes of conduct or environmental and social compliance programs, including by our manufacturers or vendors, could have a material adverse effect on our brands.
We have a robust legal and social compliance program, including codes of conduct and vendor compliance standards. The reputation of our brands could be harmed if we or our third party manufacturers and vendors, substantially all of which are located outside the United States, fail to meet appropriate product safety, product quality and social compliance standards. Despite our efforts, we cannot ensure that our manufacturers and vendors will at all times conduct their operations in accordance with ethical practices or that the products we purchase will always meet our
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safety and quality control standards, and any failure to do so could disrupt our supply chain and adversely affect our business operations.
In particular, the U.S. Government has issued withhold release orders in response to concerns regarding forced labor in the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region of China. While we have diversified the jurisdictions from which we source products, our manufacturing operations remain concentrated in China, and cotton is among the principal raw materials used in many of our goods. The presence or perception of forced labor in our supply chain in spite of our efforts to ensure that our third party manufacturers and vendors meet human rights and labor standards could result in adverse impacts on our business, including the detention of goods at U.S. points of entry, challenges in identifying replacement vendors and harm to our reputation.
Furthermore, consumers are increasingly attuned to the environmental and social impact of the products they purchase and companies with which they do business. A failure to effectively communicate our core principles with our customers and investors or respond to concerns raised with respect to our social responsibility and sustainability initiatives, including through our social media channels, could result in a negative public perception of our brands and products and negatively impact our business.
As a global apparel company, we may experience fluctuations in our tax liabilities and effective tax rate.
As a global apparel company, we are subject to income taxes in the United States and various foreign jurisdictions. We record our income tax liability based on an analysis and interpretation of local tax laws and regulations, which requires a significant amount of judgment and estimation. In addition, we may from time to time modify our operations in an effort to minimize our global income tax expense. Our effective income tax rate in any particular period or in future periods may be affected by a number of factors, including a shift in the mix of revenues, income and/or losses among domestic and international sources during a year or over a period of years; changes in tax laws and regulations and/or international tax treaties; the outcome of income tax audits in various jurisdictions; the difference between the income tax deduction and the previously recognized income tax benefit related to the vesting of equity-based compensation awards; and the resolution of uncertain tax positions, any of which could adversely affect our effective income tax rate and profitability.
Further, changes to U.S. and foreign tax laws and compliance with new tax laws could have a material adverse effect on our tax expense, cash flows and operations. The CARES Act, signed into law in March 2020, favorably impacted our U.S. tax rate for Fiscal 2020 by allowing the carryback of net operating losses to periods prior to U.S. Tax Reform and accelerating depreciation of certain leasehold improvement costs. The issuance of new regulatory guidance on the CARES Act or other changes in interpretations and assumptions regarding the CARES Act and its impact on U.S. tax laws could cause our actual U.S. tax rate to differ significantly from historical rates and estimates. In addition, the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development has published action plans that, if adopted by countries where we do business, could materially impact our tax obligations in those countries.
Impairment charges for goodwill or long-lived assets could have a material adverse impact on our financial results.
The carrying values of our goodwill and long-lived assets, including those recorded in connection with our acquisition of a business or our bricks and mortar operations, are subject to periodic impairment testing. Impairment testing of goodwill and long-lived assets requires us to make estimates about future performance and cash flows that are inherently uncertain and can be affected by numerous factors, including changes in economic conditions, income tax rates, our results of operations and competitive conditions in the industry. For example, in Fiscal 2020, we recognized $60 million of non-cash impairment charges for goodwill and intangible assets, which reflected the impact of COVID-19 on the operations, plans and strategy of the Southern Tide business. Future impairment charges may have a material adverse effect on our consolidated financial statements or results of operations.
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Any failure to maintain liquor licenses or comply with applicable regulations could adversely affect the profitability of our restaurant operations.
The restaurant industry requires compliance with a variety of federal, state and local regulations. In particular, all of our Tommy Bahama restaurants and Marlin Bars serve alcohol and, therefore, maintain liquor licenses. Our ability to maintain our liquor licenses and other permits depends on our compliance with applicable laws and regulations. The loss of a liquor license or other critical permits would adversely affect the profitability of that restaurant. Additionally, as a participant in the restaurant industry, we face risks related to food quality, food-borne illness, injury, health inspection scores and labor relations. The negative impact of adverse publicity relating to allegations of actual or perceived violations at one of our restaurants may extend beyond the restaurant involved to affect some or all of our other restaurants, as well as the image of the Tommy Bahama brand as a whole.
General Risks
Our business depends on our senior management and other key personnel, and failure to successfully attract, retain and implement succession of our senior management and key personnel may have an adverse effect on our operations and ability to execute our strategies.
Our senior management has substantial experience in the apparel and related industries, with our Chairman and Chief Executive Officer Mr. Thomas C. Chubb III having worked with our company for more than 30 years, including in various executive management capacities. Our success depends on disciplined execution at all levels of our organization, including our senior management, and continued succession planning. Competition for qualified personnel is intense, and we compete to attract and retain these individuals with other companies that may have greater financial resources than us. While we believe that we have depth within our management team, the unexpected loss of any of our senior management, or the unsuccessful integration of new leadership, could harm our business and financial performance. In addition, we may be unable to retain or recruit qualified personnel in key areas such as product design, sales, marketing (including individuals with key insights into digital and social media marketing strategies), distribution, technology, sourcing and other support functions, which could result in missed sales opportunities and harm to key business relationships.
We may be unable to protect our trademarks and other intellectual property.
We believe that our trademarks and other intellectual property rights have significant value and are important to our continued success and our competitive position due to their recognition by consumers and retailers. Substantially all of our consolidated net sales are attributable to branded products for which we own the trademark. Therefore, our success depends to a significant degree on our ability to protect and preserve our intellectual property. We rely on laws in the United States and other countries to protect our proprietary rights. However, we may not be able to sufficiently prevent third parties from using our intellectual property without our authorization, particularly in those countries where the laws do not protect our proprietary rights as fully as in the United States. The use of our intellectual property or similar intellectual property by others could reduce or eliminate any competitive advantage we have developed, causing us to lose sales or otherwise harm the reputation of our brands.
We devote significant resources to the registration and protection of our trademarks and to anti-counterfeiting efforts. Despite these efforts, we regularly discover products that infringe our proprietary rights or that otherwise seek to mimic or leverage our intellectual property. Counterfeiting and other infringing activities typically increase as brand recognition increases, and association of our brands with inferior counterfeit reproductions or third party labels could adversely affect the integrity and reputation of our brands.
Additionally, there can be no assurance that the actions that we have taken will be adequate to prevent others from seeking to block sales of our products as violations of proprietary rights. As we extend our brands into new product categories and new product lines and expand the geographic scope of the manufacture, distribution and marketing of our brands’ products, we could become subject to litigation or challenge based on allegations of the infringement of intellectual property rights of third parties, including by various third parties who have acquired or claim ownership rights in some of our trademarks internationally. In the event a claim of infringement against us is successful or would
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otherwise affect our operations, we may be required to pay damages, royalties, license fees or other costs to continue to use intellectual property rights that we had been using, or we may be unable to obtain necessary licenses from third parties at a reasonable cost or within a reasonable time. Litigation and other legal action of this type, regardless of whether it is successful, could result in substantial costs to us and diversion of the attention of our management and other resources.
We are subject to periodic litigation, which may cause us to incur substantial expenses or unexpected liabilities.
From time to time, we are involved in litigation matters, which may relate to consumer protection, employment practices, leasing arrangements, intellectual property infringement and contract disputes, and which may include a class action, and we are subject to various claims and pending or threatened lawsuits in the ordinary course of our business operations. Often, these cases raise complex factual and legal issues and, due to the inherent uncertainties of litigation, we cannot accurately predict the ultimate outcome of any such proceedings. Regardless of the outcome or whether the claims have merit, legal proceedings may be expensive and require significant management time.
Our common stock price may be highly volatile, and we may be unable to meet investor and analyst expectations.
Our common stock, which is currently listed on the New York Stock Exchange, may be subject to extreme and unpredictable fluctuations in price. The market price of our common stock may decline if the results of our operations do not meet the expectations of securities analysts or our shareholders, investors are unreceptive to an announcement of changes in our business or our strategic initiatives or securities analysts who follow our company change their estimates of our future performance. Our stock price may also change suddenly as a result of factors beyond our control, including general economic conditions, new or modified legislation impacting our industry, announcements by our competitors, or sales of our stock by existing shareholders.
The stock market has also experienced periods of general volatility which result in fluctuations in stock prices unrelated or disproportionate to operating performance. We cannot provide assurances that there will continue to be an active trading market for our stock, and the price of our common stock may also be affected by illiquidity or perceived illiquidity of our shares. In addition, although we have paid dividends in each quarter since we became a public company in July 1960, we may discontinue or reduce dividend payments based upon several factors, including the terms of our credit facility and applicable law, the need for funding for our strategic initiatives or other capital expenditures and our future cash needs. Any modification or suspension of dividends could cause our stock price to decline. We also may be subject, from time to time, to legal and business challenges or disruptions in the operation of our company due to actions instituted by activist shareholders or others.
Other factors may have an adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
Other risks, many of which are beyond our ability to control or predict, could negatively impact our business and financial performance, including changes in social, political, labor, health and economic conditions; changes in the operations or liquidity of any of the parties with which we conduct our business, or in the access to capital markets for any such parties; increasing costs of customer acquisition, activation and retention; consolidation in the retail industry and other factors. Any of these risks, and others of which we are not aware or that we currently consider to be immaterial, could, individually or in the aggregate, have a material adverse effect on our business, financial condition and results of operations.
Item 1B. Unresolved Staff Comments
None.
Item 2. Properties
We lease and own space for our direct to consumer locations, distribution centers, and sales/administration offices in various domestic and international locations. We believe that our existing properties are well maintained, are
39
in good operating condition and will be adequate for our present level of operations. We also own certain properties that were previously used in our manufacturing and distribution operations.
In the ordinary course of business, we enter into lease agreements for our direct to consumer operations, including leases for retail, restaurant and Marlin Bar space. The leases have varying terms and expirations and may have provisions to extend, renew or terminate the lease agreement, among other terms and conditions. At times, we may determine that it is appropriate to close certain direct to consumer locations that no longer meet our investment criteria, by either not renewing the lease, exercising an early termination option, negotiating an early termination or otherwise. For existing leases in desirable locations, we anticipate that we will be able to extend our leases, to the extent that they expire in the near future, on terms that are satisfactory to us, or if necessary, locate substitute properties on acceptable terms. The terms and conditions of lease renewals or relocations may not be as favorable as existing leases. Greater detail about the direct to consumer space used by each operating group is included in Part I, Item 1, Business included in this report.
Details of the principal administrative, sales, distribution and manufacturing facilities used in our operations, including approximate square footage, are as follows:
|
|
| Square |
| Lease | |||
Location | Primary Use | Operating Group | Footage | Expiration | ||||
Seattle, Washington |
| Sales/administration |
| Tommy Bahama |
| 115,000 |
| 2026 |
Auburn, Washington |
| Distribution center |
| Tommy Bahama |
| 325,000 |
| 2025 |
King of Prussia, Pennsylvania |
| Sales/administration and distribution center |
| Lilly Pulitzer |
| 160,000 |
| Owned |
Greenville, South Carolina |
| Sales/administration |
| Southern Tide |
| 14,000 |
| 2024 |
Atlanta, Georgia |
| Sales/administration |
| Corporate and Other and Lanier Apparel |
| 30,000 |
| 2024 |
Lyons, Georgia |
| Distribution center |
| Various |
| 420,000 |
| Owned |
Toccoa, Georgia (ceasing operations in Fiscal 2021) |
| Distribution center |
| Lanier Apparel |
| 310,000 |
| Owned |
Merida, Mexico (ceased operations in Fiscal 2020) |
| Manufacturing plant |
| Lanier Apparel |
| 80,000 |
| Owned |
Item 3. Legal Proceedings
From time to time, we are a party to litigation and regulatory actions arising in the ordinary course of business. These actions may relate to trademark and other intellectual property, licensing arrangements, real estate, employee relations matters, importing or exporting regulations, taxation or other topics. We are not currently a party to any litigation or regulatory action or aware of any proceedings contemplated by governmental authorities that we believe could reasonably be expected to have a material impact on our financial position, results of operations or cash flows. However, our assessment of any litigation or other legal claims could potentially change in light of the discovery of additional factors not presently known or determinations by judges, juries, or others which are not consistent with our evaluation of the possible liability or outcome of such litigation or claims.
Item 4. Mine Safety Disclosures
Not applicable.
40
PART II
Item 5. Market for Registrant’s Common Equity, Related Stockholder Matters and Issuer Purchases of Equity Securities
Market and Dividend Information
Our common stock is listed and traded on the New York Stock Exchange under the symbol "OXM." As of March 19, 2021, there were 292 record holders of our common stock.
On March 23, 2021, our Board of Directors approved a cash dividend of $0.37 per share payable on April 30, 2021 to shareholders of record as of the close of business on April 16, 2021. Although we have paid dividends in each quarter since we became a public company in July 1960, including $17 million in total or $1.00 per common share in Fiscal 2020 and $25 million in total or $1.48 per common share in Fiscal 2019, we may discontinue or modify dividend payments at any time if we determine that other uses of our capital, including payment of outstanding debt, funding of acquisitions, funding of capital expenditures or repurchases of outstanding shares, may be in our best interest; if our expectations of future cash flows and future cash needs outweigh the ability to pay a dividend; or if the terms of our credit facility, other debt instruments or applicable law limit our ability to pay dividends. We may borrow to fund dividends in the short term subject to the terms and conditions of our credit facility, other debt instruments and applicable law. All cash flow from operations will not be paid out as dividends in all periods. For details about limitations on our ability to pay dividends, see Note 5 of our consolidated financial statements and Part II, Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations, both contained in this report.
Recent Sales of Unregistered Securities
We did not sell any unregistered equity securities during Fiscal 2020.
Purchases of Equity Securities by the Issuer and Affiliated Purchasers
We have certain stock incentive plans as described in Note 8 to our consolidated financial statements included in this report, all of which are publicly announced plans. Under the plans, we can repurchase shares from employees to cover employee tax liabilities related to the vesting of shares of our stock. During the Fourth Quarter of Fiscal 2020, no shares were repurchased pursuant to these plans.
As disclosed in our Annual Report on Form 10-K for Fiscal 2017 and subsequent annual and quarterly reports, in March 2017, our Board of Directors authorized us to spend up to $50 million to repurchase shares of our stock. This authorization superseded and replaced all previous authorizations to repurchase shares of our stock and has no automatic expiration. As of February 1, 2020, no shares of our stock had been repurchased pursuant to this authorization. In February and March 2020, we repurchased 332,000 shares of our common stock for $18 million under an open market stock repurchase program (Rule 10b5-1 plan) pursuant to the Board of Directors’ authorization. During the Fourth Quarter of Fiscal 2020, we did not repurchase any shares of our stock pursuant to this authorization. As of January 30, 2021, $32 million of the authorization remains available for future repurchases of our common stock.
Stock Price Performance Graph
The graph below reflects cumulative total shareholder return (assuming an initial investment of $100 and the reinvestment of dividends) on our common stock compared to the cumulative total return for a period of five years, beginning January 30, 2016 and ending January 30, 2021, of:
● | The S&P SmallCap 600 Index; and |
● | The S&P 500 Apparel, Accessories and Luxury Goods. |
41
| INDEXED RETURNS | |||||||||||
Base Period | Years Ended | |||||||||||
Company / Index |
| 1/30/16 |
| 1/28/17 |
| 2/3/18 |
| 2/2/19 |
| 2/1/20 |
| 1/30/21 |
Oxford Industries, Inc. |
| 100 |
| 78.78 |
| 117.38 |
| 116.42 |
| 106.72 |
| 102.47 |
S&P SmallCap 600 Index |
| 100 |
| 135.00 |
| 154.01 |
| 154.55 |
| 164.80 |
| 202.99 |
S&P 500 Apparel, Accessories & Luxury Goods |
| 100 |
| 85.20 |
| 108.75 |
| 101.36 |
| 93.38 |
| 91.33 |
Item 6. Selected Financial Data
Intentionally omitted.
42
Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations
The following discussion and analysis of our results of operations, cash flows, liquidity and capital resources compares Fiscal 2020 to Fiscal 2019 and should be read in conjunction with our consolidated financial statements contained in this report.
The results of operations, cash flows, liquidity and capital resources for Fiscal 2019 compared to Fiscal 2018 are not included in this report on Form 10-K. For a discussion of our results of operations, cash flows, liquidity and capital resources for Fiscal 2019 compared to Fiscal 2018 and certain other financial information related to Fiscal 2019 and Fiscal 2018, refer to the “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations” in Part II. Item 7 of our 2019 Annual Report on Form 10-K, filed with the SEC on March 30, 2020, which is available on the SEC’s website at www.sec.gov and under the Investor Relations section of our website at www.oxfordinc.com.
OVERVIEW
Business Overview
We are a leading branded apparel company that designs, sources, markets and distributes products bearing the trademarks of our Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide lifestyle brands and other brands. Tommy Bahama and Lilly Pulitzer, in the aggregate, represent more than 85% of our net sales.
Our business strategy is to develop and market compelling lifestyle brands and products that evoke a strong emotional response from our target consumers. We consider lifestyle brands to be those brands that have a clearly defined and targeted point of view inspired by an appealing lifestyle or attitude. Furthermore, we believe lifestyle brands that create an emotional connection, like Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide, can command greater loyalty and higher price points at retail and create licensing opportunities. We believe the attraction of a lifestyle brand depends on creating compelling product, effectively communicating the respective lifestyle brand message and distributing products to consumers where and when they want them. We believe the principal competitive factors in the apparel industry are the reputation, value, and image of brand names; design of differentiated, innovative or otherwise compelling product; consumer preference; price; quality; marketing; product fulfillment capabilities; and customer service. Our ability to compete successfully in the apparel industry is directly related to our proficiency in foreseeing changes and trends in fashion and consumer preference and presenting appealing products for consumers. Our design-led, commercially informed lifestyle brand operations strive to provide exciting, differentiated products each season.
During Fiscal 2020, 77% of our net sales were through our direct to consumer channels of distribution, which consists of our brand-specific full-price retail stores, our e-commerce websites, our Tommy Bahama food and beverage operations and our Tommy Bahama outlets. The remaining 23% of our net sales was generated from our wholesale distribution channels. Our wholesale operations consist of net sales of products bearing our lifestyle brands, which complement our direct to consumer operations and provide access to a larger group of consumers, and the net sales of our Lanier Apparel operating group.
For additional information about our business and each of our operating groups, see Part I, Item 1. Business included in this report. Important factors relating to certain risks which could impact our business, including those resulting from the COVID-19 outbreak, are described in Part I, Item 1A. Risk Factors of this report.
Industry Overview
Our operating groups operate in highly competitive apparel markets that continue to evolve rapidly with the expanding application of technology to fashion retail. No single apparel firm or small group of apparel firms dominates the apparel industry, and our direct competitors vary by operating group and distribution channel. The apparel industry is cyclical and very dependent upon the overall level and focus of discretionary consumer spending, which changes as consumer preferences and regional, domestic and international economic conditions change. Increasingly, consumers are choosing to spend less of their discretionary spending on certain product categories, including apparel, while spending
43
more on services and other product categories. Further, negative economic conditions often have a longer and more severe impact on the apparel industry than on other industries.
The competitive and evolving environment may require that brands and retailers approach their operations, including marketing and advertising, very differently than historical practices and may result in increased operating costs and capital investments to generate growth or even maintain current sales levels. Many of the changes in the industry were accelerated or exacerbated by the COVID-19 pandemic. While this competition and evolution presents significant risks, especially for traditional retailers who fail or are unable to adapt, we believe it also presents a tremendous opportunity for brands and retailers to capitalize on the changing consumer environment.
We believe our lifestyle brands have true competitive advantages in this new retailing paradigm, and we are leveraging technology to serve our consumers when and where they want to be served. We continue to believe that our lifestyle brands, with their strong emotional connections with consumers, are well suited to succeed and thrive in the long term while managing the various challenges facing our industry.
COVID-19 Pandemic
The COVID-19 pandemic has had a significant effect on overall economic conditions and our operations and is the primary reason for a 33% reduction in net sales and a significant net loss in Fiscal 2020 after years of profitable operating results. While our mission remains the enhancement of long-term shareholder value, our focus during this crisis has been (1) the health and well-being of our employees, customers and communities, (2) protecting the reputation, value and image of our brands and (3) preserving liquidity.
Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, we saw reduced consumer traffic starting in early March 2020 and temporarily closed all our retail and restaurant locations. We began reopening our stores and restaurants in early May with additional stores and restaurants reopening throughout the Second Quarter of Fiscal 2020. We have reopened substantially all of our direct to consumer locations in a phased approach in accordance with local government guidelines and with additional safety protocols. Substantially all locations are experiencing reduced traffic, limited operating hours and capacity, and seating and other limitations, with such factors impacting individual locations differently. Certain retail stores and restaurants, including several in Hawaii and California, were required to close again for certain periods in the Third and Fourth Quarters of Fiscal 2020 after local jurisdictions reinstated some closure requirements. There can be no assurance that additional closures will not occur as a result of any resurgence of COVID-19 cases and/or additional government mandates or recommendations. Generally, locations with attached restaurants or Marlin Bars, in outdoor centers and in drivable resort vacation destinations performed better than locations in indoor malls in Fiscal 2020. At the same time, the shift from in-store shopping to online shopping has accelerated during the COVID-19 pandemic resulting in 24% growth in our e-commerce businesses during Fiscal 2020.
There is significant uncertainty as to the duration and severity of the pandemic as well as the associated business disruption, impact on discretionary spending and restrictions on our ongoing operations. Thus, the ultimate impact of the pandemic cannot be reasonably estimated at this time. However, the COVID-19 pandemic is expected to continue to have a material adverse impact on our business, results of operations, cash flows and financial condition for the foreseeable future due to the anticipated lower net sales from our bricks and mortar locations; reduced demand from our wholesale customers, several of which filed for bankruptcy in 2020 or are undergoing restructurings or closures; the uncertainty as to the continued strength of our brands’ e-commerce businesses during the pendency of the pandemic and thereafter; overall changes in consumer spending habits and consumer confidence; any potential disruptions to our supply chain; and a slowdown in the U.S. and global economies.
We took several actions in Fiscal 2020 to mitigate the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on our business, operations and liquidity, which included:
● | we furloughed and laid off a significant number of our retail, restaurant and office employees; |
● | certain salaried employees, including our Chief Executive Officer, Chief Financial Officer and other executives, took temporary reductions in base salary during Fiscal 2020; |
44
● | our Board of Directors elected to reduce its cash retainers for Fiscal 2020; |
● | we worked with our suppliers to cancel, delay or suspend future product deliveries; |
● | we worked with our wholesale customers to identify suitable changes to our business arrangements; |
● | we negotiated equitable rental arrangements with substantially all of our direct to consumer location landlords, believing that the payment of rents for both the closure and subsequent periods is inappropriate due to the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic, and are continuing those discussions with some landlords; |
● | under the CARES Act, and other regulations in other countries, we obtained employee retention credits for certain compensation paid to employees even while they were not working during the COVID-19 pandemic and have deferred the payment of the employer portion of FICA; |
● | we suspended, cancelled or deferred certain capital expenditure projects, reducing our capital expenditures for Fiscal 2020; |
● | during much of Fiscal 2020, we had drawn down certain amounts on our U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement to increase our cash position and preserve financial flexibility; and |
● | our Board of Directors reduced the rate of our dividend payable for Fiscal 2020. |
Also, we established management committees, reporting to our Chief Executive Officer, to continue to monitor the COVID-19 pandemic and its impact and are taking the necessary measures to protect the health and safety of our employees and customers.
We anticipate that net sales in each of our Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide operating groups will continue to be negatively impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic in Fiscal 2021, with the impact being more pronounced in the first half of the year and then beginning to rebound a little more in the second half of the year once more consumers are vaccinated, begin to travel again or otherwise begin to return to a more normal way of life.
Given our net cash position as of January 30, 2021, substantial availability under our U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement and expectation of positive cash flows from operations in Fiscal 2021, among other factors, we believe we have adequate liquidity and the financial discipline to address the near-term challenges related to the COVID-19 pandemic and to position ourselves well to thrive in the post-pandemic retail environment.
Lanier Apparel Exit
In Fiscal 2020, we made the decision to exit our Lanier Apparel business, which is expected to be completed during the second half of Fiscal 2021. In Fiscal 2020 and Fiscal 2019, Lanier Apparel represented 5% and 8%, respectively, of our consolidated net sales. This decision is in line with our stated business strategy of developing and marketing compelling lifestyle brands and takes into consideration the increased challenges faced by the Lanier Apparel business, many of which were magnified by the COVID-19 pandemic. The Lanier Apparel business was primarily focused on moderately priced tailored clothes and related products.
In connection with the planned exit of the Lanier Apparel business, we recorded pre-tax charges of $13 million in the Lanier Apparel operating group during Fiscal 2020. These charges consist of (1) $6 million of inventory markdowns, the substantial majority of which were reversed in Corporate and Other as part of LIFO accounting as the inventory has not been sold as of January 30, 2021, (2) $3 million of employee charges, including severance and employee retention costs, (3) $3 million of operating lease asset impairment charges for leased office space of Lanier Apparel, (4) $1 million of non-cash fixed asset impairment charges, primarily related to leasehold improvements, and (5) $1 million of charges related to our Merida manufacturing facility, which ceased operations in Fiscal 2020. Refer to
45
Note 11 in our consolidated financial statements included in this report for more information about the Lanier Apparel exit charges.
In addition to these charges incurred in Fiscal 2020, we currently expect to incur incremental Lanier Apparel exit charges totaling approximately $3 million in Fiscal 2021, which are expected to consist of additional employee charges for employees retained during the exit and the acceleration of certain post-exit contractual commitments.
Key Operating Results
The following table sets forth our consolidated operating results from continuing operations (in thousands, except per share amounts) for Fiscal 2020 compared to Fiscal 2019:
| Fiscal 2020 |
| Fiscal 2019 | |||
Net sales | $ | 748,833 | $ | 1,122,790 | ||
Operating (loss) income | $ | (123,849) | $ | 93,675 | ||
Net (loss) earnings | $ | (95,692) | $ | 68,493 | ||
Net (loss) earnings per diluted share | $ | (5.77) | $ | 4.05 | ||
Weighted average shares outstanding -- diluted |
| 16,576 |
| 16,914 |
The net loss per share in Fiscal 2020 compared to positive net earnings per share in Fiscal 2019 was primarily due to (1) the impact of COVID-19 on the operating results of each of our operating groups resulting in lower sales and lower gross margins, (2) the $60 million Southern Tide impairment charge recognized in the First Quarter of Fiscal 2020, a significant portion of which was non-deductible, (3) the $15 million write off of an information technology project in Tommy Bahama, and (4) $13 million of charges incurred in Fiscal 2020 related to the Lanier Apparel exit, which is expected to be completed in the second half of Fiscal 2021. These items were partially offset by a smaller operating loss in Corporate and Other, which was primarily due to the favorable impact of LIFO accounting primarily due to the reversal of inventory markdowns recognized in the operating groups.
OPERATING GROUPS
We identify our operating groups based on the way our management organizes the components of our business for purposes of allocating resources and assessing performance. Our operating group structure reflects a brand-focused management approach, emphasizing operational coordination and resource allocation across each brand’s direct to consumer, wholesale and licensing operations, as applicable. Our business has historically been operated primarily through our Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer, Southern Tide and Lanier Apparel operating groups. In Fiscal 2020, we made the decision to exit our Lanier Apparel business, which is expected to be completed during the second half of Fiscal 2021. For additional information about each of our operating groups, see Part I, Item 1. Business and Note 2 to our consolidated financial statements, both included in this report.
STORE COUNT
The table below provides store count information for Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Southern Tide as of the dates specified. The table includes our permanent stores and excludes any pop-up or temporary store locations which have an initial lease term less than or equal to 12 months. Due to the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic, all our stores and restaurants were closed beginning in March 2020. We began reopening our stores and restaurants starting on May 3, 2020 in a phased approach in accordance with local government guidelines and with additional safety protocols implemented with substantially all direct to consumer locations reopened as of January 30, 2021. Certain retail stores and restaurants in some jurisdictions, including Hawaii and California, were required to close again for certain periods in the second half of Fiscal 2020 after local jurisdictions reinstated some closure requirements. Substantially all locations are experiencing reduced traffic, limited operating hours and capacity, seating and other limitations, with such factors impacting individual locations differently.
46
January 30, | February 1, | February 2, | February 3, | |||||
| 2021 |
| 2020 |
| 2019 |
| 2018 | |
Tommy Bahama retail stores |
| 105 |
| 111 |
| 113 |
| 110 |
Tommy Bahama retail-restaurant locations |
| 20 |
| 16 |
| 17 |
| 18 |
Tommy Bahama outlets |
| 35 |
| 35 |
| 37 |
| 38 |
Total Tommy Bahama locations |
| 160 |
| 162 |
| 167 |
| 166 |
Lilly Pulitzer retail stores |
| 59 |
| 61 |
| 62 |
| 57 |
Southern Tide retail stores | 3 | 1 | — | — | ||||
Total Oxford locations |
| 222 |
| 224 |
| 229 |
| 223 |
RESULTS OF OPERATIONS
The following table sets forth the specified line items in our consolidated statements of operations both in dollars (in thousands) and as a percentage of net sales. We have calculated all percentages based on actual data, but percentage columns may not add due to rounding. Individual line items of our consolidated statements of operations may not be directly comparable to those of our competitors, as classification of certain expenses may vary by company.
| Fiscal 2020 |
| Fiscal 2019 |
| Fiscal 2018 |
| ||||||||||
Net sales |
| $ | 748,833 |
| 100.0 | % | $ | 1,122,790 |
| 100.0 | % | $ | 1,107,466 |
| 100.0 | % |
Cost of goods sold |
| 333,626 |
| 44.6 | % |
| 477,823 |
| 42.6 | % |
| 470,342 |
| 42.5 | % | |
Gross profit |
| 415,207 |
| 55.4 | % |
| 644,967 |
| 57.4 | % |
| 637,124 |
| 57.5 | % | |
SG&A |
| 492,628 |
| 65.8 | % |
| 566,149 |
| 50.4 | % |
| 560,508 |
| 50.6 | % | |
Impairment of goodwill and intangible assets | 60,452 | 8.1 | % | — | — | % | — | — | % | |||||||
Royalties and other operating income |
| 14,024 |
| 1.9 | % |
| 14,857 |
| 1.3 | % |
| 13,976 |
| 1.3 | % | |
Operating income |
| (123,849) |
| (16.5) | % |
| 93,675 |
| 8.3 | % |
| 90,592 |
| 8.2 | % | |
Interest expense, net |
| 2,028 |
| 0.3 | % |
| 1,245 |
| 0.1 | % |
| 2,283 |
| 0.2 | % | |
Earnings from continuing operations before income taxes |
| (125,877) |
| (16.8) | % |
| 92,430 |
| 8.2 | % |
| 88,309 |
| 8.0 | % | |
Income taxes |
| (30,185) |
| (4.0) | % |
| 23,937 |
| 2.1 | % |
| 22,018 |
| 2.0 | % | |
Net earnings | $ | (95,692) |
| NM | $ | 68,493 |
| NM | $ | 66,291 |
| NM | ||||
Weighted average shares outstanding - diluted |
| 16,576 |
| 16,914 |
|
|
| 16,842 |
|
|
The following table presents the proportion of our consolidated net sales by distribution channel for each period presented:
| Fiscal 2020 |
| Fiscal 2019 |
| Fiscal 2018 |
| |
Retail |
| 27 | % | 39 | % | 40 | % |
E-commerce |
| 43 | % | 23 | % | 21 | % |
Restaurant |
| 7 | % | 8 | % | 8 | % |
Wholesale |
| 23 | % | 30 | % | 31 | % |
Total |
| 100 | % | 100 | % | 100 | % |
FISCAL 2020 COMPARED TO FISCAL 2019
The discussion and tables below compare certain line items included in our consolidated statements of operations for Fiscal 2020 to Fiscal 2019. Each dollar and percentage change provided reflects the change between these fiscal periods unless indicated otherwise. Each dollar and share amount included in the tables is in thousands except for per share amounts. We have calculated all percentages based on actual data, and percentage columns in tables may not
47
add due to rounding. Individual line items of our consolidated statements of operations may not be directly comparable to those of our competitors, as classification of certain expenses may vary by company.
Net Sales
Fiscal 2020 | Fiscal 2019 | $ Change | % Change | |||||||||
Tommy Bahama | $ | 419,817 | $ | 676,652 | $ | (256,835) |
| (38.0) | % | |||
Lilly Pulitzer |
| 231,078 |
| 284,700 |
| (53,622) |
| (18.8) | % | |||
Southern Tide |
| 34,664 |
| 46,409 |
| (11,745) |
| (25.3) | % | |||
Lanier Apparel |
| 38,796 |
| 95,200 |
| (56,404) |
| (59.2) | % | |||
Corporate and Other |
| 24,478 |
| 19,829 |
| 4,649 |
| 23.4 | % | |||
Consolidated net sales | $ | 748,833 | $ | 1,122,790 | $ | (373,957) |
| (33.3) | % |
Consolidated net sales decreased $374 million, or 33%, in Fiscal 2020 primarily due to the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic, which has had a negative impact on our retail, wholesale and restaurant operations, impacted by, among other things, temporary closures and reduced traffic after locations reopen, while our e-commerce business has generated very strong growth. The decreases in net sales included decreases in (1) full-price retail sales of $213 million, or 56%, (2) wholesale sales of $161 million, or 48%, (3) restaurant sales of $35 million, or 42%, and (4) outlet sales of $26 million, or 45%. These decreases were partially offset by increased e-commerce sales of $62 million, or 24%, primarily due to more demand as consumers shifted to online shopping as well as increased online marketing and promotional events to further engage consumers. The changes in net sales by operating group are discussed below.
Tommy Bahama:
Tommy Bahama net sales decreased $257 million, or 38%, in Fiscal 2020 primarily due to the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic, which had a negative impact on our retail, wholesale and restaurant operations. The decrease in net sales in Tommy Bahama included decreases in (1) full-price retail sales of $145 million, or 54%, (2) wholesale sales of $67 million, or 50%, including a decrease in both full-price and off-price sales, (3) restaurant sales of $35 million, or 42%, and (4) outlet store sales of $27 million, or 46%. These decreases were partially offset by increased e-commerce sales of $17 million, or 13%. The following table presents the proportion of net sales by distribution channel for Tommy Bahama for each period presented:
| Fiscal 2020 |
| Fiscal 2019 |
| |
Retail |
| 37 | % | 48 | % |
E-commerce |
| 36 | % | 20 | % |
Restaurant |
| 11 | % | 12 | % |
Wholesale |
| 16 | % | 20 | % |
Total |
| 100 | % | 100 | % |
Lilly Pulitzer:
Lilly Pulitzer net sales decreased $54 million, or 19%, in Fiscal 2020 primarily due to the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic, which had a negative impact on our retail and wholesale operations. The decrease in net sales in Lilly Pulitzer included decreases in (1) retail sales of $69 million, or 60%, and (2) wholesale sales of $24 million, or 40%, primarily due to lower full-price sales. These decreases were partially offset by increased e-commerce sales of $39 million, or 36%, including a 63% increase in full-price e-commerce sales and a 2% increase in e-commerce flash sales to $49 million. The following table presents the proportion of net sales by distribution channel for Lilly Pulitzer for each period presented:
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| Fiscal 2020 |
| Fiscal 2019 |
| |
Retail |
| 20 | % | 41 | % |
E-commerce |
| 64 | % | 38 | % |
Wholesale |
| 16 | % | 21 | % |
Total |
| 100 | % | 100 | % |
Southern Tide:
Southern Tide net sales decreased $12 million, or 25%, in Fiscal 2020 due to a $15 million, or 39%, decrease in wholesale sales, which was primarily due to the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic, partially offset by a $1 million, or 15%, increase in e-commerce sales and a $1 million increase in retail store sales resulting from the opening of three Southern Tide retail stores, with the first store opening in the Fourth Quarter of Fiscal 2019. The following table presents the proportion of net sales by distribution channel for Southern Tide for each period presented:
| Fiscal 2020 |
| Fiscal 2019 |
| |
Retail | 4 | % | — | % | |
E-commerce |
| 32 | % | 21 | % |
Wholesale |
| 64 | % | 79 | % |
Total |
| 100 | % | 100 | % |
Lanier Apparel:
Lanier Apparel net sales decreased $56 million, or 59%, in Fiscal 2020 primarily due to the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic. Lanier Apparel had decreases in net sales in most replenishment, seasonal and other programs for both the branded and private label businesses, including a large pants program for a warehouse club that did not repeat in Fiscal 2020. These decreases were partially offset by $4 million of sales of COVID-19 related personal protective equipment such as masks and gowns.
Corporate and Other:
Corporate and Other net sales increased $5 million, or 23%, in Fiscal 2020 primarily due to increased sales in TBBC as well as increased Duck Head sales.
Gross Profit
The tables below present gross profit by operating group and in total for Fiscal 2020 and Fiscal 2019, as well as the change between those two periods and gross margin by operating group and in total. Our gross profit and gross margin, which is calculated as gross profit divided by net sales, may not be directly comparable to those of our competitors, as the statement of operations classification of certain expenses may vary by company.
| Fiscal 2020 |
| Fiscal 2019 |
| $ Change |
| % Change |
| ||||
Tommy Bahama | $ | 244,197 | $ | 413,200 | $ | (169,003) |
| (40.9) | % | |||
Lilly Pulitzer |
| 137,962 |
| 174,573 |
| (36,611) |
| (21.0) | % | |||
Southern Tide |
| 11,810 |
| 22,786 |
| (10,976) |
| (48.2) | % | |||
Lanier Apparel |
| 303 |
| 25,086 |
| (24,783) |
| (98.8) | % | |||
Corporate and Other |
| 20,935 |
| 9,322 |
| 11,613 |
| NM | % | |||
Consolidated gross profit | $ | 415,207 | $ | 644,967 | $ | (229,760) |
| (35.6) | % | |||
Notable items included in amounts above: | ||||||||||||
LIFO adjustments in Corporate and Other | $ | (9,220) | $ | 1,454 |
|
|
|
| ||||
Tommy Bahama Japan inventory markdown charges | $ | — | $ | 159 | ||||||||
Lanier Apparel exit charges in cost of goods sold | $ | 6,684 | $ | — |
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| Fiscal 2020 |
| Fiscal 2019 |
| |
Tommy Bahama |
| 58.2 | % | 61.1 | % |
Lilly Pulitzer |
| 59.7 | % | 61.3 | % |
Southern Tide |
| 34.1 | % | 49.1 | % |
Lanier Apparel |
| 0.8 | % | 26.4 | % |
Corporate and Other |
| NM | % | NM | % |
Consolidated gross margin |
| 55.4 | % | 57.4 | % |
The decrease in consolidated gross profit in Fiscal 2020 was due to the lower net sales and lower gross margin. The lower consolidated gross margin reflects lower gross margin in each operating group as discussed below. During Fiscal 2020, we recognized the negative impact of $15 million of inventory markdowns which were partially offset by a $9 million LIFO accounting credit. In Fiscal 2019, we recognized $4 million of inventory markdowns and a $1 million LIFO accounting charge.
Tommy Bahama:
The decrease in gross margin for Tommy Bahama was primarily driven by (1) lower gross margin in the full-price direct to consumer channel primarily due to a change in sales mix as a greater proportion of sales were related to promotion events, (2) lower gross margin in the wholesale channel resulting from a change in sales mix, with a greater proportion of off-price wholesale sales, as well as increased inventory markdowns, (3) lower gross margin in outlet sales as discounts were increased to move product and (4) certain fixed asset and operating lease asset impairment charges related to the restructuring of our Tommy Bahama sourcing operations.
Lilly Pulitzer:
The decrease in gross margin for Lilly Pulitzer was primarily due to (1) lower gross margin in the ecommerce flash sales resulting from increased discounting and increased freight expense, and (2) increased inventory markdowns. These unfavorable items were partially offset by higher initial margins in Fiscal 2020.
Southern Tide:
The decrease in gross margin for Southern Tide was primarily due to (1) increased inventory markdowns and lower profitability on off-price sales related to excess inventory and (2) more significant discounts and allowances in all channels of distribution. These items were partially offset by a change in sales mix with direct to consumer sales representing a larger proportion of net sales in Fiscal 2020.
Lanier Apparel:
The decrease in gross margin for Lanier Apparel was primarily due to (1) the $7 million of Lanier Apparel exit charges in cost of goods sold, including inventory markdowns and charges related to our Merida manufacturing facility, as discussed in Note 11 in the consolidated financial statements included in this report, (2) an increase in inventory markdowns in the First Half of Fiscal 2020, and (3) lower gross margin on various programs due to the challenging tailored clothing market. Each of these items had a more significant gross margin impact on the lower sales volume of Fiscal 2020.
Corporate and Other:
The gross profit in Corporate and Other primarily reflects the gross profit of TBBC, Duck Head and the Lyons, Georgia distribution center as well as the impact of LIFO accounting adjustments. The primary drivers for the higher gross profit were (1) the $11 million net favorable impact of LIFO accounting with a LIFO accounting credit in Fiscal 2020 and a LIFO accounting charge in Fiscal 2019 and (2) the gross profit resulting from higher net sales. The LIFO accounting impact in Corporate and Other in each period primarily reflects (1) a charge in Corporate and Other when inventory that had been marked down to the estimated net realizable value in an operating group in a prior period is
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ultimately sold or (2) a credit in Corporate and Other when inventory has been marked down to the estimated net realizable value in an operating group in the current period, but has not been sold as of period end.
SG&A
| Fiscal 2020 |
| Fiscal 2019 |
| $ Change |
| % Change |
| ||||
SG&A | $ | 492,628 | $ | 566,149 | $ | (73,521) |
| (13.0) | % | |||
SG&A (as a % of net sales) |
| 65.8 | % |
| 50.4 | % |
|
|
|
| ||
Notable items included in amounts above: | ||||||||||||
Tommy Bahama Japan SG&A charges | $ | — | $ | 2,795 | ||||||||
Tommy Bahama information technology project write-off | $ | 15,473 | $ | — | ||||||||
Amortization of Lilly Pulitzer Signature Store intangible assets | $ | 270 | $ | 320 | ||||||||
Amortization of Southern Tide intangible assets | $ | 288 | $ | 292 | ||||||||
Lanier Apparel exit charges in SG&A | $ | 6,342 | $ | — | ||||||||
TBBC change in fair value of contingent consideration | $ | 593 | $ | 431 |
|
|
|
|
The lower SG&A in Fiscal 2020 was primarily due to:
● | decreased employment costs of $63 million primarily due to reductions in our employment cost in response to COVID-19, including the temporary furlough of substantially all retail and restaurant employees while direct to consumer operations were temporarily closed, lay-offs, reduced hours or pay reductions for certain employees, reductions in incentive compensation amounts, suspension of the company match during Fiscal 2020 for our 401(k) plan and the receipt of certain employee retention credits, partially offset by certain severance amounts, including employee charges associated with the Lanier Apparel exit as discussed in Note 11 to the consolidated financial statements included in this report; |
● | an $11 million reduction in certain variable expenses including credit card transaction fees, shipping costs, commissions, supplies and other variable expenses; |
● | a $10 million reduction in occupancy expenses which includes reductions in percent rent, utilities, maintenance and other expenses due to COVID-19 impact on store operations, certain negotiated rent reductions, and fewer Tommy Bahama and Lilly Pulitzer bricks and mortar locations, partially offset by a $3 million operating lease asset impairment charge associated with the Lanier Apparel exit as discussed in Note 11 to the consolidated financial statements included in this report; |
● | a $6 million decrease in travel expenses as the COVID-19 pandemic halted most business travel; |
● | a $3 million reduction in advertising expenses; |
● | a $3 million decrease in Tommy Bahama Japan charges, which related to charges associated with the restructure and exit of our Tommy Bahama Japan operations, with no such charges in Fiscal 2020; and |
● | decreases in other expense items including communications, samples, and administrative and general expenses. |
These decreases in SG&A were partially offset by:
● | a $15 million charge for the write off of costs associated with a Tommy Bahama information technology project that has been abandoned and will not be implemented; |
51
● | $6 million of increased estimated provisions for credit losses and other charges related to bankruptcies with respect to multiple customers; and |
● | a $3 million increase in depreciation expense including impairment charges for certain leasehold improvements at certain retail locations and Lanier Apparel office space. |
Impairment of goodwill and intangible assets
In Fiscal 2020, impairment charges for goodwill and intangible assets totaling $60 million were recognized in Southern Tide. The impairment charges for Southern Tide primarily reflect the impact of COVID-19 on the operations, plans and strategy of the Southern Tide business. In addition, a small impairment charge was recognized in Lanier Apparel related to a trademark that was not deemed recoverable. Refer to Note 4 in the consolidated financial statements included in this report for additional discussion regarding the impairment charges recognized in Fiscal 2020. There were no impairment charges for goodwill or intangible assets in Fiscal 2019.
Royalties and other operating income